Before teaching language on base in S. Korea, know the law

By T.D. Flack, Stars and Stripes
Pacific edition, Wednesday, April 25, 2007

SEOUL — South Koreans long have had a desire to speak English, and the U.S. military community long has made a healthy tax-free profit teaching the language.

Sought after because of their native language skills, U.S. troops, Department of Defense civilians and family members can earn $30, $40 and even $50 an hour or more depending on whom — and how many — they’re teaching in private classes. (SITE NOTE: The average offered is $20/hour by a hagwon.)

Take a quick walk through a U.S. military base any given weekend and you’re bound to see South Korean kids grouped around tables with Americans, playing card games, working through English textbooks and even singing their ABCs. U.S. Forces Korea officials, however, said the practice is illegal.

Legal officials declined to speak directly to Stars and Stripes, instead offering a one-word reply to each of a series of questions submitted via e-mail.

When asked whether people under the status of forces agreement could legally teach private classes on a U.S. installation, in their government housing or in government provided off-base housing, the answer to each question was “No.” (SITE NOTE: This is logical. But this is NOT happening -- at least to any a large degree. Off-base students are not seen on base except when the off-base "teachers" bring their students to base for a treat at Burger King or an American movie. The major problem are those GIs/contractors and their dependents teaching off-base.)

A request for additional interviews to clarify the discrepancy between the law and what appears to be a common practice on U.S. bases was declined. (SITE NOTE: The penalty for first and second offenses are fines with the third offense immediate deportation and inability to return to Korea for five-years.)

Earlier this year, USFK detailed the process for those seeking official off-base employment with a Korean company. Most active-duty and DOD civilians cannot legally obtain outside employment, according to USFK. Most family members, however, can obtain a Korean work visa. And a SOFA-status person married to a South Korean citizen can obtain an F-2 visa or permanent resident alien F-5 visa. Both visas allow South Korean employment. (SITE NOTE: The ability of a SOFA Status person obtaining an F-2 spousal visa is questionable as these are two different categories. The spouse must be Korean -- so this would mean the wife would be giving a GI -- SOFA status holder -- a different classification. This category is used mostly by retirees with Korean wives. However, this could apply to perhaps an ADULT dependent with a Korean mother to obtain off-base employment.)

DOD-invited civilian contractors and their family members are not allowed to work off base, according to USFK.

Yet the data collection — and the customized-computer analysis it feeds — still is far from complete, Air Force Lt. Col. Robert Hunt said. That’s because the Army and Air Force Exchange Service is still about a year away from tracking individual sales at each store cash register, Hunt said.

Additionally, efforts to track on-base liquor sales with a special card reader have stalled in recent months because of budget constraints, Hunt said. Only three machines are in operation at Yongsan Garrison in Seoul. Requests to fund the $3,000 machines at stores in Area I and Area III are pending, he said.

Still, peering into AAFES’ ordering and delivery system boosts the military’s ability to spot potential black market activity, said Air Force Lt. Col. William Brooks, chief of USFK’s Customs Division. It means investigators can see, for example, an abundance of baby formula going to stores that serve single soldiers, Hunt said. The military can then pull paper records to see whether the inventory goes where it should - from the customs docks to the storeroom to individual shopping bags, he said. “You can see something immediately,” Brooks added.

CASTAR stands for computer-assisted sales tracking and reporting. The program, created by USFK, uses Homeland Security technology to pinpoint suspicious shopping trends, such as when a customer repeatedly buys too many hot dogs and too few buns. Already, shopping receipts from the 12 commissaries throughout South Korea go into the system. The commissaries are run by the Defense Commissary Agency and have a different cash register system.

Liquor sales at the three AAFES shoppettes on Yongsan also go into the mix, Hunt said. For the past two weeks, those base convenience stores have been tracking vitamin and beer sales, he said. The precision of the tracking system depends on spotting abnormal shopping habits versus normal habits. Establishing that history takes a few weeks, Hunt said. “We just started it now, but we need to build up the data,” Hunt said. “We think very soon, we’ll start to see odd patterns.”

Two recent black-marketing schemes that garnered headlines relied more on AAFES’ staff discovering suspicious activity and combined investigations with Korean customs officials, Brooks said. In January, two AAFES employees were convicted of moving about 21,000 cases of beer from the U.S. Army’s Camp Long into the black market. A more recent case involved the investigation of nearly two dozen people suspected of a massive operation that moved 25,000 cases of beer and 633 tons of food, all expired, into illegal sales. Last year, a military study estimated as much as 9 percent of all commissary sales could be related to black marketing. The study estimated up to $7.2 million of grocery sales in 2005 could be black marketing, with a street value of $20.4 million, according to data available at the time. (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

The Stars and Stripes ran a two-part series by Teri Weaver starting on 18 Dec 2005 on the updated system to combat black marketing in Europe and Korea using computerized software adapted from the homeland security. Computer codes once developed to predict terrorist activities and illegal stock market trades have been adapted to identify people who buy popular black market items at the 12 commissaries throughout South Korea, U.S. Forces Korea officials say.

The program is called CASTAR, for computer-assisted sales tracking and reporting. It compares the techniques of former black marketers "those who have been caught by military and Korean officials with the habits of today." 48,600 commissary shoppers to look for potential crimes.

The black marketing of U.S. goods outside of American bases dates back to the Korean War, and both countries have worked for years to catch Americans and Koreans who skirt government fees and customs laws by reselling items on the streets. USFK declined to estimate the volume of dollars involved in the illicit trade.

Many black marketed goods, like sports equipment, electronics, furniture, clothing and alcohol, are from stores operated by AAFES, the Army and Air Force Exchange Service. To date, AAFES lacks the same sophisticated program now available to South Korea commissaries, which are run by a separate agency.

It's the popular food items like American beef, cheese, vitamins, baby food and California rice that come from the commissaries. Military officials believe they now have a leg up on catching grocery-shopping offenders, and already investigators are looking more closely at some people because of the program, officials said.

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May 2007

Osan enlisted club, Rec Cnter in works Announced in 2006, the first construction project started in the parking lot of the old BX/Food Court. The $4.5 million community activities center is set for completion in June 2008 and the enlisted club in August 2009. The center will go up on the site occupied by Building 920, the former base exchange, adjacent to the base library. The enlisted club will be built behind the new center. (SITE NOTE: Supposedly the library will remain in place.)

The activities center will house a large computer room, telephones, two game rooms, a lounge, a platform stage, three music rooms, a wireless hub, and a retail and resale store. It will be a one-story, 13,165-square-foot building. “This is going to be a place where our troops can go and unwind” as well as family members, Fletcher said. It will replace Osan’s McPherson Community Activities Center, Building 345.

The Shin Woo construction company is carrying out the project under contract with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ Far East District. The $13.9 million enlisted club will replace the aging Challenger Club, to be demolished later. The Challenger Club was built in 1965 and has had roof leaks and other maintenance problems. Even after the Challenger is demolished, the base will continue to have two enlisted clubs — the one slated for construction and the existing Mustang Club.

The new club will be a one-story structure with a partial second story for office space. It will feature a multi-purpose room for award presentations, ceremonies and unit social and other functions. It will accommodate 600 people seated or 1,000 standing. The other part of the club will “be your typical bar and lounge,” with pool tables, karaoke and other amenities. The club is still being designed, but officials expect to name a contractor by early next year.

To make room for the two structures, workers will demolish Building 920, which served as the base exchange until 2004 when a new base shopping mall and BX complex opened nearby. Workers have fenced off the site, including most of a long parking lot outside the building. The project means the base will lose 32 parking spaces. The loss will be offset when a nearly completed 400-space parking garage opens, officials said. Additionally, a 270-space garage is planned for what is now part of the shopping mall parking lot. Also lost to the project is the Sky coffee stand that did a steady business with servicemembers, taxi drivers, and civilians from nearby office buildings. (Source: Stars and Stripes.)


Old BX (Frank Scherier)


Old BX Demolished (May 2007) (Frank Scherier)


Old BX Demolished (May 2007) (Frank Scherier)

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Small protest closes Osan Air Base gate (May 2007) Air Force security police closed the base main gate to traffic for about a half-hour on 2 May after about 10 South Koreans staged a peaceful labor protest outside the gate. The incident stemmed from a dispute the protesters have with a South Korean company. It was unknown whether the company is one that does business on the base, but he said the firm was “not connected to Osan Air Base or the U.S Air Force.” South Korean police dispersed the protesters. The base’s other gates remained open during the demonstration. (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

The local rumor mill stated that the dispute was over unpaid wages by the Korean company doing contract work on base.

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Osan Runway Closed Until 5 June (May 2007) Osan’s 9,000-foot runway closed on 24 May for routine spot repairs and won’t reopen until June 5. Osan-based aircraft and aircrews have moved to other bases in South Korea until the $3 million project is finished. Base officials declined to say where aircraft and personnel have moved, citing security reasons -- but if the airmen are making a daily commute, it is fairly certain that Suwon AB is one of the bases for the A-10s. The other base for F-16s is Kunsan AB because of the supply system -- just as Kunsan came up to Osan when its runway was being repaired two years ago.

Workers will repair or replace concrete slabs that have cracked or weakened, officials said. They’ll also repair spalls — pothole-like depressions in the concrete. Where necessary, they’ll also put fresh sealant between concrete slabs, he said. New asphalt will be poured on shoulders of the taxiways and at a taxi lane at the runway’s west end, and airfield markings will be repainted. Various buildings will also get a new coat of paint. Drains will be fixed, the grass cut and weeds sprayed. Much of the work will be done by the Il Kwang Industrial Corp. Ltd., under an Army contract. The rest will be done by airmen. (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

The only thing that the USAF forgot to add is that the low-level passes over the runway did not stop. The roars of the aircraft still echo down Route 1 leading to Pyeongtaek and richochet off the apartment buildings as loud as ever. It is definitely NOT quiet at Osan ... though the frequency of the disturbances has leveled off.

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New Wing Commander for 51st FW (May 2007) Col. Jon A. Norman, 42, will replace Brig. Gen. Joseph Reynes Jr. as commander of Osan’s 51st Fighter Wing during a June 15 ceremony. Norman until recently was commander of the 8th Operations Group, part of Kunsan’s 8th Fighter Wing. Norman headed the 8th Operations Group until May 18. (SITE NOTE: The fact that Col Norman's Operations Group change of command was on May 18 -- prior to 8th FW commander Col Brown change of command on May 25 -- indicates that his selection as the 51st FW commander was made some time ago ... and only announced now.)

He is a 1986 graduate of the U.S. Air Force Academy, where he received a bachelor's degree, according to his official Air Force biography. He also holds a master's degree in military arts and science from the Army's Command and General Staff College, and a master's in national security studies from the National War College. And he's a command pilot with more than 3,000 flight hours. Among his decorations are the Distinguished Flying Cross with oak leaf cluster, the Defense Meritorious Service Medal with oak leaf cluster and the Meritorious Service Medal with two oak leaf clusters.

Gen Reynes will move to a new assignment at Air Combat Command as inspector general.

Although recent commanders of the wing have been one-star generals, Norman will not be the first colonel to lead it. The 51st Fighter Wing commander's position typically is a two-year assignment. (SITE NOTE: People are starting to read between the lines as the USAF starts making its move to a "support" role -- as the direct intervention role by the Air Component Command of the CFC disappears in 2012. The reversion of the 51st FW commander position to an O-6 position sends a subtle message to the ROK. Another subtle change is that the position has gone to a relatively junior Colonel who made 0-6 in 2004 -- though he made the prestigeous 3000 flying hour mark while at Kunsan. Whether it will be a stepping stone to a star is to be seen.)

The 8th Fighter Wing also is led by a colonel, currently Col. Charles Q. Brown, who assumed command May 25, replacing Col. Jeffrey G. Lofgren. (SITE NOTE: The 8th FW commander position used to be a stepping stone to Brig Gen star -- after assuming another wing commander position. In recent years, the slot has gone to "junior" colonels versus the senior colonels of the past. Lofgren made colonel in 2004 and Colonel Brown made Colonel in 2005. One can draw their own conclusions as to the importance of Kunsan in the present "big picture" of the USAF. It sure appears that the importance of the ROK bases are being downgraded.) (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

(SITE NOTE: One of the first acts of Col. Brown as the new 8th FW commander was to meet with the Kunsan Mayor Dong Shin Moon along with the 7th AF Commander Lt. Gen. Stephen Wood on May 25 -- the same day he took command. It is important to note that the Chikdo Range issue is still open and in 2006 7th AF Commander Lt. Gen. Trexler warned that the USAF may pull out of Korea if the issue was not resolved. The $3 million WISS (weapons impact scoring system) still has not been installed as far as we know, but more importantly the Kunsan City government has made restrictions for use of the range that make its use impossible as a bombing range. There are things that may be coming to a head very shortly. The previous commander, Col Lofgren, restricted everyone to base at Kunsan AB after an incident in April for fear of a public backlash. (SEE Restricted to Base for details.))

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'Cobra' always ready to strike (May 2007) According to 51st FW Public Affairs news release, the 621st Air Control Squadron is combat ready 24/7.

They've been in every major conflict in the Pacific for 60 years, work through base exercises until every last jet is on the ground and control all U.S. assets in the Republic of Korea - but in "Cobra Country," it's business as usual. But what exactly does the business of the 621st Air Control Squadron entail?

"We ensure the safety of flight, and ensure the fighter squadrons meet training objectives and standards to support armistice conditions," said Tech. Sgt. Julia Dickinson, 621st ACS weapons director instructor and evaluator. Through keeping the fighter wings trained, the controllers of the 621st keep themselves combat ready, said Sergeant Dickinson. In fact, they are one of only five combat mission-ready career fields in the Air Force, which includes jobs like pararescue and security forces. They must be ready to deploy anywhere at any time, keeping U.S. assets on target, in the fight and getting them back home safely.

At Osan they accomplish this mission out of the Hardened Tactical Air Control Center. When entering Cobra Country, controllers are greeted by rows of computer screens. Using this new computer system, the controllers can see and hear the air traffic over the Republic of Korea. They keep U.S. pilots informed of air traffic flow and, during wartime, where the enemy is coming from. In the room representing the 621st are five main positions:

1. The mission crew commander, who coordinates the flow of the mission, working with senior operations duty officers.

2. The mission crew commander technician, who coordinates with the fighter squadrons, and in the case of civilian air traffic, with Incheon Airport.

3. Weapons directors and air weapons officers, who control all U.S. assets from all branches and all platforms. They talk directly to the pilots and give them the information they need to win the war.

4. The senior director, who coordinates between the weapons directors and the mission crew commander.

5. The data systems technician, who makes sure all information runs smoothly. They are essentially the eyes and ears of the team.

"We basically have the pilots the entire time they're in the air until they get home," said Sergeant Dickinson. "And we rely on everyone to get the whole job done." It's not just the 621st that's in Cobra getting it done, she said. "We get to work hand-in-hand with our Korean (Air Force) brothers and sisters and coordinate with each other," said Sergeant Dickinson. "We also work with other services, including the 3rd (Battlefield Coordination Detachment) Patriot Battery."

With all the computer equipment in the room, Cobra also has a communications Airman on the floor. "We have them here at all times," said Senior Airman Jami Theiss, data systems technician instructor. "It can get pretty busy in here, so if something goes wrong with the tactical display or our radios, we have them to call on." Even though there is not a 51st or 7th in front of their squadron name, the 621st ACS actively takes part in Osan's mission, making sure the fighter squadrons can ably execute combat operations.

"We spend 24 hours a day, 365 days a year on this scope," said Sergeant Dickinson. "The Cobra is always up." In a small career field at a shop of only 75 people, there can be long hours and busy weeks. But the bond they share is the love of their job and their respect for each other. "We are always each other's wingmen, whether it's at home or at work," said Sergeant Dickinson. "Once a Cobra, always a Cobra." "This is a great squadron and a great mission," said Lt. Col. Fred Bacon, 621st ACS commander. "We're controlling airplanes. It doesn't get any better."

The unit was constituted 621st Aircraft Control and Warning Squadron on 2 Jul 1946 and activated on 1 Aug 1946. After service in the Korean War the 621st was inactivated on 3 Feb 1958. Redesignated 621st Tactical Control Squadron, the unit was activated, on 7 Feb 1966 and organized on 23 Feb 1966. It was assigned to the 51st Composite Wing (Tactical) on 8 Jan 1976. It moved without personnel and equipment from Udorn RTAFB, Thailand to Osan AB, ROK. It was transferred to the 5th Tactical Air Control (later, 5th Tactical Control) Group on 8 Jan 1980 where it remains until present. The 621st TACS would become the 621st Air Control Squadron of Osan AB.


621st Air Control Squadron: "PRO OBSERVATIO POSITIVA" = For Positive Control

It was comprised of the 6130th Tactical Control Flight: 15 Jan 1979-15 Dec 1989; 6140th Tactical Control Flight: 15 Mar 1980-1 Jan 1982; 6140th Tactical Control Flight: 31 Jan 1987-15 Dec 1989; and 20th Tactical Control Flight, 15 Dec 1989-present.

From 1976-1986, it maintained mountain-top detachments in Korea. Detachment 1 (Yongmun San, South Korea) : 15 Apr 1976-31 Aug 1986. Yongmun San (Dragon Mountain) was the closest radar site to the DMZ on top of a 5000 ft mountain. Detachment 2 (Mangil San, South Korea) : 15 Apr 1976-15 Apr 1986. Detachment 3 (Palgong San, South Korea) : 15 Apr 1976-31 Mar 1986. (Source: 621st TCS.)

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June 2006

AAFES fires three accused in Camp Humphreys beer-smuggling scheme (Jun 2007) It was reported in the Stars and Stripes on 6 June that three of five AAFES employees authorities say were involved in smuggling 140 cases of beer out of Camp Humphreys, South Korea, in January have been fired.

The case, the third major black-marketing scheme busted at AAFES this year, came after another AAFES official observed suspicious activity and initiated an investigation, according to AAFES spokesman Master Sgt. Donovan Potter. A fourth person said to be involved in the alcohol-smuggling scheme has retired, and a fifth was suspended for two weeks because there was not enough evidence to fire him, Potter stated in an e-mail from his Okinawa headquarters. According to a police blotter listing in Friday's edition of The Morning Calm Weekly, the U.S. Forces Korea newspaper, one person "removed various brands of liquor, valued at $14,689.48 over a six-month period," admitted to the theft and "rendered partial payment of $10,997.19."

A Pyeongtaek customs official said last week that police worked the case with the U.S. military for months before deciding it was a customs matter. Police officials recently turned the case over to customs, the official said, and his office is just beginning its investigation.

According to a 5 June statement from AAFES head spokesman Lt. Col. Dean Thurmond, AAFES is working to stop black marketing with other law enforcement agencies, including the Army Criminal Investigation Command, the Air Force Office of Special Investigations, Korean Customs Service and U.S. Forces Korea J1. "These efforts are about doing the right thing, not the bottom line," he said. "As a military command and a guest in Korea, AAFES is dedicated to strengthening relationships with local law enforcement agencies to eliminate illegal business practices."

In late March, South Korean police confirmed they were investigating 18 people, including two American base personnel and two AAFES employees, for smuggling beer and food off Camp Market and selling it on the black market. The group reportedly managed to move about 25,000 cases of beer and 633 tons of expired food by manipulating the tracking system and falsifying documents. In January, two AAFES employees were convicted of taking about 21,000 cases of beer from Camp Long. (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

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July 2007

USFK honors seven Korean citizens, one organization for being 'good neighbors' The USFK recognized seven individuals and one organization Wednesday for taking steps to strengthen relations between South Koreans and the United States. The Good Neighbor Awards recognize South Koreans who have contributed to a better quality of life for U.S. servicemembers and furthered ties between the two countries. This year’s award winners hosted programs that introduced U.S. servicemembers to Korean culture, as well as sporting events and other activities. The winners and their achievements, according to the ceremony program:

• Pyeongtaek University, for programs including visits to local orphanages by students and USFK servicemembers, and the Korean Head Start Program, which introduces U.S. servicemembers to the Korean culture and language.
• Cho Se-hyun, president of the Health Promotion Center, Kangnam CHA Hospital. Established the 2nd Infantry Division Tae Kwon Do Association in 2006, provided financial support and sponsorship for programs benefiting 2ID soldiers, including the Korean musical “Nanta,” and served as a medical and fitness consultant to U.S. soldiers.
• Lee Kang-yu, chair of Hyukjae Associates and president of the Second to None Soldier Support Group. Founding member of the AUSA Uijeongbu Chapter, and sponsor of homestay programs, city tours and dinner tables for the United Service Organizations’ annual Six-Star Salute.
• Billy Kim, pastor emeritus of Suwon Central Baptist Church and president of the Far East Broadcasting Company. Sponsored concerts and performances, is a member of the Commander’s Korean Advisory Council and a founding member of the Korean-American Protestant Pastor Association.
• Park Byung-ho, chair of DaeLim Foodstuff Co./Sun Cheon Leports. A patron of the Annual Air Force Ball in Seoul, the MIG Alley Chapter of the Air Force Association and the Young Leader’s Program, and vice chairman of the People to People New Seoul chapter.
• Yi Mun-hwan with People to People and a 15-year member of the Wonju Chamber of Commerce. Sponsors luncheons, field trips, golfing, cultural and sporting events, and hosts victory parties for two annual military exercises.
• Lee Yoon-sok, honorary president of Hwasung Industry and Dong-A department store, president of the Korean-American Partnership Association, which sponsors events for U.S. soldiers and their families in Daegu.
• Moon Dong-shin, mayor of Gunsan city. Co-chair of the Korean and American Friendship Council, recently dedicated two city buses twice a month to personnel inprocessing at Kunsan Air Base. A member of the Reserve Officer Training Corps, Gunsan City Chapter.

(Source: Stars and Stripes.)

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August 2007

SPECULATION: ROKAF Airmen Join Base Defenders at Kunsan -- but What About Osan??? (Aug 2007) An article in the Pacaf News on 2 Aug stated, "And in the event of war, one of those traditional threats could come from the sky in the form of the North Korean Air Force, which both ROK and U.S. Airmen, assigned to the 38th Fighter Group and 8th Fighter Wing respectively here, trained to counter July 25." However, though the article talks of Kunsan AB, we wonder what the 51st Wing is doing to "integrate" the ROKAF at Osan AB into their base defense plans. We don't want to get into the tactics as that is none of our business, but we notice when the base defense exercises are going on, the ROKAF seems to be simply going about their business.

The article asks: "But why would U.S. Airmen need to integrate into a ROK unit, specifically one with an anti-aircraft mission, a tradition billet for the U.S. Army's Air Defense Artillery?" "Since the 38th FG and 8th FW have their own ways of training members and defending Kunsan Air Base, it's very important for both sides to understand each other," ROKAF Capt. Kim, Moon Jong said. "By training together, we can maximize [the] synergy effect and minimize misunderstandings and confusions between us." Captain Kim, commander of the 38th FG's anti-aircraft battery, is charged with defending this base from the North's air forces. To accomplish this, they use the M-61 20 mm Vulcan cannon, capable of firing 6,600 rounds per second. Its six rotating barrels, firing at one time permit a high rate of fire while at the same time reducing the problem of barrel wear and heat generation.

(SITE NOTE: The Vulcan cannons are vintage 1960 hardware given to the ROK. First developed in 1956, the M61 20mm cannon is a proven gun, having been the US military's close-in weapon of choice dating back to the 1950s -- installed in the Air Force's F-15 , F-16 and F-22, and the Navy's F-14 and F/A-18. The primary use of the cannon is in the extremely short range (less than 2000 feet) air-to-air environment, where more sophisticated air-to-air missiles are ineffective. Alternately, the cannon has limited usefulness in a ground strafing role -- requiring longer range targeting. Thus one can see that the Vulcan's effectiveness as an anti-aircraft weapon is limited to short-range. This is why the USAF Security Forces have relied on their Stinger missiles as anti-aircraft defense.

In 1990, the ROK Army turned over the Air Defense Artillery (ADA) function to the ROKAF becuase they were focused on the DMZ and restructuring of the Army. In addition, the ROK Army wanted to get rid of the outdated -- and embarrassingly decrepit Nike Hercules (98 percent fail-rate) and outdated 30-year-old Hawk missiles (both transferred to the ROK in late 1970s). The ROKAF ADA Command at Osan AB originally envisioned getting the PAC-3 -- then later PAC-2 missiles to be in place in 2007 under their ADA command structure, but no one in the ROK procurement chain wants to talk about where it is at this time. In the meantime, the Army recreated an ADA function to move their ATACMS under -- and also may move to take over any PAC-2 missiles if and when they ever arrive because of "interoperability" as long as the US Army PAC-3 batteries remains in Korea.

The claims of "synergy" should be taken with a grain of salt. Before the 1970s at Kunsan, the ROKAF kept their truck-mounted Quad-50s and their Vulcan Cannon close in to where the ROKAF F-86s were -- in other words, they only protected their ROKAF assets. The reason the vulcan was only ROKAF was because there were US Army ADA units protecting the base. These were the high-altitude US Army Nike-Hercules batteries in Kimje and Taejon -- with a Hawk battery just outside Kunsan AB in Okku and another in Biin. But these assets were turned over to the ROK Army in the late 1970s. The Hawk unit disappeared but it appears the Nike-Hercules site remained in the ROK Army hands until 1990 when it was switched to the ROKAF. At Kunsan after the late 1970s, the ROKAF ALWAYS manned the Vulcan at the end of runway at Kunsan (when the outdated Quad-50s were replaced) and active USAF units (3rd TFW/354th TFW/8th TFW) were assigned. But the Kunsan AB had NEVER integrated the ROKAF into the base defense plan until the early 2000s.

The USAF Security Forces at Kunsan had their Stinger missiles (fired from Little Coyote) and the ROKAF had their Vulcans to the south end of the runway (Big Coyote) -- and both sides never really talked to one another. In fact, up until the 2000s, a normally unmanned USAF perimeter position was located just a few feet from the manned ROKAF Vulcan position. The bottomline is that the USAF has always viewed the Vulcan cannon as a weapon with limited use in an anti-aircraft defense role due to its limited range (2000 feet) -- and of no value for perimeter defense except in its limited field of fire.

At Kunsan, the north end of runway has the commercial airport -- and is only guarded with a ROKAF 40mm bofors gun site (circa WWII high altitude anti-aircraft guns that might be useful only if its a slow moving aircraft) to guard not only Kunsan AB, but the large MAGNUM munitions site there as well. This was an Achilles heel covered by the Stinger missiles of the 8th TFW. After the Patriot batteries at Kunsan, Osan and Suwon went into operation with PAC-3 missiles in Sep 2005, the bases breathed easier as they had both anti-aircraft and SCUD-missile protection with more missiles per battery with the PAC-3 -- and the Vulcan site continued to be ignored as a primary anti-aircraft defense with limited value to base defense.

However, in the early 2000s, the USAF in Korea changed its views and started to integrate the ROK Army K-9s into base defense exercises -- and later integrated both ROK Army and ROK Air Force security forces elements into joint base defense exercises. This was at the time when the USAF in Korea philosophy changed to "Defend the base (Foal Eagle exercise) -- Receive the Follow-ons (RSOI exercise) -- and Take the Fight North (which we won't talk about)". Under OPLAN 5027 Major Theater War (CINCUNC/CFC OPLAN 5027), the base has to survive on its own until the follow-ons arrive under the Time Phased Force Deployment List (TPFDL), Appendix 6, to Annex A to CINCUNC/CFC OPLAN 5027.

(SITE NOTE: At Osan, we're not so sure that the base defense operations of the USAF and ROKAF have been incorporated. We wonder how the 51st FW envisions the ROKAF as part of their base defense plans. In the ROKAF area in the main gate area, the perimeter defenses have been upgraded with new cinderblock walls and guard towers, but off-base buildings are butted right up to the fence -- and even tower over it in places. The ROKAF has prime responsibility for security in the ROKAF area. During the last base defense exercise when we went to the BX during the day, we noted that the ROKAF troops seemed to be going about their business while the USAF members played the war game. Though portions of the ROKAF security forces may have been involved, the remainder of the ROKAF on the streets were not equipped with any chem warfare or "go-to-war" gear.

But in the big picture, we have to be realistic. Even OPLAN 5027 Major Theater War -- soon to be defunct -- states that the DPRK Air Force will concede air superiority as soon as they insert their DPRK SOF teams. They will NOT be attacking the base with aircraft. Instead the SCUD-Cs fired from the DMZ will be the weapons of choice that will be aimed to destroy the runways -- in order to delay the base aircraft from taking off while the DPRK tank forces breach DMZ areas.

Thus the bottomline is the Vulcans are just another feel-good feature of limited value as an anti-aircraft weapon.)

ROKAF Quad-50 and Vulcan at Osan Up near the Thrift Shop sits the antiquated Quad-50s -- circa WWII and Korean War -- and Vietnam. They were given to the ROK Army when the US forces left after the Korean War -- and transferred to the ROKAF when the ADA function switched in 1990. Its value to base defense? It is ideal to chop down any frontal attack by invading troops -- but it is too slow for anti-aircraft use on modern aircraft -- even propeller-driven ones. (SITE NOTE: In Sep 2007, the unit was disbanded and the old Quad-50s gone. The site was just growing weeds.)

As to the ROKAF Vulcan cannons at Osan, they are in plain view of all the contractors who enter the Doolittle Gate just over the fence. From the Doolittle Gate Pass issue building parking lot, you can see ROKAF troops when they are engaged in exercises on the other side of the fence. How are these integrated into base defense? With the Vulcan positions right next to the fence line, one wonders what real value they are if a DPRK SOF team (North Korean Special Operation Forces team) commits a sapper attack. A surprise hand-tossed grenade could take care of the guns. Boom ... no gun emplacement.

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Burger King and Popeye to Be Demolished (Aug 2007) The Burger King near Osan’s commissary was to close on 15 Aug. The same day, a trailer selling Burger King items was to open next to the Osan Shopping Mall, according to Steven Pena, general manager for the Army and Air Force Exchange Service at Osan. The Popeye’s near the commissary also was to close in coming days, Pena said. Demolition of both stores is scheduled to begin Sept. 4. A permanent Burger King is planned to open near the shopping mall in May, Pena said.

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$20.7M project to add middle school, high school classrooms (Aug 2007) A two-year construction project at Osan Air Base will add a middle school, new classrooms at the high school and a 383-space parking garage to the base. The $20.7 million project also includes tennis courts, a basketball court and a running track on top of the garage, according to Air Force Maj. David C. Meissen, commander of the 51st Civil Engineer Squadron at Osan.

Land is at a premium at the base, so “we have to go vertical,” Meissen said during an interview in his office last week. The need for the new classrooms comes as more military assignments at Osan allow airmen to bring their families. The number of accompanied tours — military assignments that pay for family members to live abroad — has increased from 375 to 500 airmen, according to Meissen. The middle and high school’s enrollment is about 380, and it is not expected to change in the next year, according to DODDS Pacific spokesman Charles Steitz.

Demolition on the Burger King and Popeyes across from the current high school is scheduled to begin Sept. 4 to make way for the parking garage. At Osan, a new Burger King and Popeyes are expected to open next year across from the bowling alley.

Crews have begun working on a space east of the high school, the home of the future expansion. Meissen said both of those projects should be completed in time for the 2008-09 school year. The middle school is expected to open the following school year, in fall 2009, he said.

During this school year, teachers and school staff will use a nearby housing garage for parking. The new parking garage will be open to school staff, commissary shoppers and other base residents, he said. None of the construction plans should affect the elementary school, Meissen said. The U.S. government will pay for the eight new classrooms at the high school. The South Korean government will pay for the balance of the project, including the new sixth- to eighth-grade middle school, a new music building and the parking garage, Meissen said.

At Humphreys, an Army base 14 miles away, the military also plans to build new schools as part of the overall scheme to consolidate U.S. troops in South Korea and triple the size of the base in Pyeongtaek. Plans for those schools are still in preliminary stages, according to a Humphreys spokesman.

Three years ago, an influx of families at both Osan and Humphreys strapped the classroom space at schools on both bases. School and military officials erected temporary class space to address the problem then. (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

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Osan Elementary School Celebrate 25th School Year (Aug 2007) The elementary school celebrated a milestone as classes began once again for the 25th year since it was built. A ribbon cutting ceremony was held for the elementary school on 28 July, 1982 to open the new Osan Elementary School, a Department of Defense School. The school at the time offered nine classes for grades kindergarten through sixth, with a number of other activity rooms made available as well. At the time, the school cost nearly 2 million dollars, and took a year to complete.

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November 2007

2 killed in U.S. military bus accident (Nov 2007) On 26 Nov General Burwell B. Bell, expressed his condolences to victims of a traffic accident involving a U.S. military vehicle that resulted in the death of two South Koreans Sunday. "We are greatly saddened by this terrible accident," Bell said in a statement. "On behalf of all USFK service members, we express our deepest sympathies and my personal condolences go out to the families of those affected by this tragic event."

The U.S. military vehicle was a bus driven by a South Korean civilian employee of Gunsan U.S. Air Base. It was carrying 19 passengers from Gunsan to Osan when it hit a civilian van, killing two and injuring six in the van. The injured are all in critical condition, police said, but names were not released pending investigation and notification of families. The driver of the military bus, age 40, was identified only by his last name, Shin.

The casualties were in a Kia Carnival minivan. The accident occurred on a highway near Hongseong, South Chungcheong, 157 kilometers (97.5 miles) south of Seoul. The bus hit the van from behind but police are investigating the exact cause of the accident, an official of the Seoul metropolitan police said. (Source: Joongang Ilbo.)

Update: (Nov 2007) Two South Korean sisters died on 25 Nov and six of their family members were critically injured after a bus carrying 15 U.S. servicemembers, most from Osan, and four family members crashed into their van on a highway north of Kunsan Air Base, according to U.S. and South Korean officials. The bus was traveling to Osan Air Base from Kunsan when it hit the van, which was parked on the side of Highway 15 near the Hongsung rest stop, about an hour’s drive north of Kunsan, South Korean police said during a phone interview on 26 Nov.

The bus driver, Shin Dong-se, a 40-year-old South Korean employee at Kunsan Air Base, told police his bus struck the van after swerving to avoid another car in front of him that braked suddenly, a Hongsung police spokesman said. The American passengers were mostly U.S. airmen from Osan and their relatives, said Kunsan spokeswoman Capt. Tiffany Payette. One passenger suffered minor injuries and was treated at Osan, Payette said. No Kunsan airmen were on the bus. The South Korean family in the van was returning to Incheon after visiting relatives in Gochang, a city in the southwest part of the country, police said. Unfortunately, there are conflicting stories. The driver said the van was parked along the side of the highway, but the family disputed this.

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December 2007

Based Locked Down due to Threat (Dec 2007) One Korean Marine is dead and another is injured after they were struck by a jeep and robbed while on the way to their unit in Gangwha-gun, Incheon on 5 Dec. The Marines were returning to their unit after guard duty at a coastal post when they were hit by a Korando jeep at 5:55 a.m. After hitting them with his vehicle, the driver attacked the men with a knife and made off with a K-2 rifle, 75 bullets, a grenade and six explosive shells (similar to grenades). Sgt. Lee Jae-hyuk and Pvt. Park Young-chul were taken to a nearby hospital, where Pvt. Park died 6 Dec evening. The attacker is described as a 170-cm tall man in his 30s wearing a beige jacket. He was carrying a weapon which he used to stab Sgt. Lee in the face and thighs. He took the Ganghwado beltway to escape.

According to police, the white Korando SUV was a stolen car. Police received a report that the attacker's jeep passed Cheongbuk toll gate on the highway between Pyeongtaek and Anseong in Gyeonggi Province at 7:38 p.m. and two minutes before the police arrived. The police gave chase. This put him in the area of Osan AB and Camp Humphreys and the military road blocks went up. Police found a Korando jeep on fire without number plates under a bridge in Hwaseong city -- south of Osan AB -- six km from the Cheongbuk toll gate at 10:40 p.m. Police believe it was the same vehicle used in the attack and they are searching for the driver.

Korea's armed forces at 6:30 p.m. issued a "Jindo Dog One" alert, which is the highest level of preparedness against spy activities, for areas in northern Gyeonggi Province including Gimpo, Gangwha and Ilsan. The military and police stopped and questioned drivers on major roads in Gyeonggi Province. They believe the attacker is likely to commit another crime or terror acts with the rifle and ammunition.

Police are trying to identify the fugitive by examining DNA from his blood stain left on a hat that he dropped at the scene. Suspecting the wounded man may have bought medicine, they are seeking witnesses and have also offered a 20-million won reward. Police suspect the attack was committed as part of an elaborate scheme, as he seemed to be familiar with the military checkpoint in a remote place, and aware of soldiers' duty times -- they said the man is possibly a former soldier who served his mandatory military duty in the area. Also the car's license plates were fabricated. Officers suspect he may have had an accomplice, as a witnesses reported another car parked together with the SUV by the rice field before the latter was burned.

U.S. Forces Korea spokesman David Oten said on 7 Dec the command had not changed its force-protection status. However, the main gate at Osan was locked down supposedly in reaction to the incident. The lock-down was lifted on 9 Dec. Col. Jon Norman, 51st Fighter Wing commander at Osan, prohibited off-base travel from 7 a.m. Friday to 6 a.m. Sunday. During that time, officials waited to learn more about the accident and whether it posed a threat for 51st Fighter Wing personnel, said spokesman Lt. John Ross. According to the U.S. Forces Korea Web site, the travel restrictions at Osan restricted off-base travel, including to the nearby Songtan Entertainment District, unless it was for official business. Travel to and from private residences for duty was allowed.

(SITE NOTE: Many Americans felt the lock-down at Osan AB was an over-reaction, while other felt it was a valid precaution. Personally after the past attempts by spies to infiltrate the country, I would not put it past the North to attempt this again. However, with all the international politics over the nuclear dismantlement going on, it seems unlikely that the North would sanction such a mission. Political rallies and other events were cancelled. To many Americans were gun thefts are commonplace, this appeared like an over-reaction, but in Korea were firearms for personal ownership is banned, this is a rarity.

Some bloggers commented that if the USFK was worried about the weapons falling into terrorist hands, they should disarm the town patrols of side arms when patrolling red-light districts off-base and arm them with mace/gas guns instead. It seemed to be a valid point.

After the attack, Cho fled to his studio in Hwaseong, left the weapons there and burned the car he used in the crime in a nearby rice field. He later abandoned the weapons under a bridge in South Jeolla Province, and left a letter describing their location in a postbox in Busan. On 12 Dec, the stolen K-2 rifle, 75 rounds of ammunition, a hand grenade, and six rounds of ammunition for a grenade launcher were found dumped under a bridge near a highway in Jangseong, South Jeolla Province. Police recovered the weapons after they found a handwritten letter from the suspect saying he left the arms near a gas station in Jangseong, some 300 kilometers (190 miles) southwest of Seoul. Police identified him from fingerprints on the letter. Later that day, South Korean police arrested a 35-year-old former soldier named Cho who worked for an interior design firm. The suspect was caught near a movie theater in downtown Seoul, and there was a minor scuffle with detectives. When caught, Cho said he committed the crime on impulse due to depression, but the military police said this was false. He later said that after he was dumped in September by a girl he had dated for 10 years, he decided to destroy himself by committing a serious crime as revenge to give her feelings of guilt. (Source: Korea Times.))

EPILOGUE: Man sentenced to death for slaying of South Korean marine (Apr 2008) A South Korean man for whom a nationwide manhunt was launched in December was sentenced to death in a court-martial Thursday for killing a South Korean marine and stealing his rifle and ammunition, according to the Ministry of National Defense. Cho Young-guk, 35, stabbed one marine to death and critically wounded another on Gwangha Island on Dec. 6. He fled after stealing a rifle, a grenade and ammunition from the pair.

“What use is this? My son is dead,” the father of the dead marine, Park Sang-cheol, said as he left the courtroom, according to Yonhap News. The Korean constitution allows the military to court-martial a civilian in certain cases. Should the execution be carried out, Cho would become the first South Korean to be executed since 1997.

Officials initially believed someone planned to use the weapons in an assassination attempt against candidates in South Korea’s presidential election. Cars entering Seoul were searched for the missing weapons at military checkpoints.

Court officials said Cho attacked the marines to take revenge on his former girlfriend of 10 years, who refused to reconcile with him. Cho wanted the woman to suffer by seeing his self-destructive behavior, marine investigators have said. Cho’s defense attorneys said his client suffered from mental illness and had previously attempted suicide three times, according to Yonhap. A military judge dismissed that defense, and said Cho had inspected the crime scene two weeks before the attack, according to Yonhap. Cho can appeal his sentence until April 14, a Ministry National Defense spokesman said. (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

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AFOC Static Displays


AFOC Gate Static Displays: F-4D and F-5E (Mar 2006) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


AFOC Gate Static Displays: F-86, T-33, UH-1 and Nike-Zeus (Mar 2006) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

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Base Auto Hobby Shop and A-10 Static Display:


(L) Osan AB Auto Hobby Shop (R) A-10 Static Display (Sep 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

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Golf Course:


(L) Golf courses fairway looking towards AFOC at top of hill. (R) Osan AB Base Golf Course (west side) (Sep 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Osan AB Base Golf Course (west side) (R) Golf Course with Oriental House in the distance (Sep 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)




(L) Osan AB Base Golf Course (northwest side) (Note Antenna to right side) (R) Ginko Tree on Golf Course (Sep 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)




Ginko Tree on Golf Course (Sep 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)




(L) Golf Course from Ginko Tree (R) Ginko Tree Limb supports (Sep 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

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Doolittle Gate:


(L) View of Runway with A-10s shooting passes from Doolittle Gate area (overrun area) (NOTE: The blur is a dragonfly -- not a helicopter.) (R) Security Police at Doolittle Gate (31 July 2006) (Tongil News)

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Osan AB viewed from West Side (Seotan Myeon):


Osan AB (Nov 2002) (Tony Cruz) (SITE NOTE: AMC Ramp (Diamond D) to right and Diamond C to left. Patriot batteries near to Chinwi River. The new BX had not been constructed at the time, but the area had been cleared. Turumi Lodge to the lower right and 51st Wing HQ to lower left.)


(L) View of ricefields to the west of base (R) Patriot Batteries seen from across the Chinwi River (31 July 2006) (Tongil News)


Osan AB West side of base runway, Ammo Bunkers and Diamond area (Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Osan AB West end overrun area (R) West of Osan AB looking northwest (Chinwi River to right) (Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) East end of runway looking at Diamond A area (R) Chinwi River east of Osan AB (Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

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Miscellaneous Links:

• Camp Humphreys website -- New Camp Humphreys website (Mar 2007)
• USFK Personnel Imfornation Management System -- To see the limits, and to look at your own grocery shopping record, go to this link and click on Ration Lookup.
• USACE Contracts for FY2006 -- contains Osan AB and Camp Humphreys projects

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KALANI'S PERSONAL SONGTAN JOURNAL

January 2007

Happy New Year!!! On New Years took a trip to Kunsan and let my daughter stay with her friends -- and do all the girl-things that teenagers do. It had been almost a year and a half since we'd been back to the place. After dropping off my daughter, I took my dog and went over to Changhang on New Years eve and watched the sunset. There were a lot of people out there as well. At the Changhang Beach Park -- actually muddy sand with tidal flats -- it was too cold to cook out, do I and Shelly, my dog, dined on cold sandwiches. While living in Kunsan, the family and I spent many spring, summer and fall days there on picnics. Then it was one of those little known secrets -- nearly empty beach with camp sites and water to wash up in the summertime when all the beaches were packed. However, now the road to the beach was widened so two cars can pass -- not like the days when is was a one car concrete farm road. There were new toilets -- and shower facilities though locked for the winter. It was also crowded. When I arrived, there were crowds of people out there to watch the sunset of the last day of the year -- as the New Year's sunrise doesn't happen over the ocean on the west coast of Korea. Though it was freezing outside, I had a sub-zero sleeping bag and the seat folds down into a bed so my dog and I shared the sleeping bag -- but later she decided to snuggle under the other sleeping bag. It was pretty comfortable but you had to get up to heat the car every two hours or so. Also the car is equipped with an old VCD player so I spent the evening watching Jackie Chan and some Korean flicks.

About midnight, got out and lit a charcoal briquette fire to heat up some food, but the wind was blowing and the food never got hot -- and finally gave up. Brought back memories of all the times we camped out there -- and despite the cold, it was fun.


(L) Changhang Beach Park looking south to the landmark smokestack of LG Copper Smelter; (R) Changhang Beach Park looking to mouth of Kumgang River (31 Dec 2006) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Changhang Beach Park Sunset (31 Dec 2006) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Changhang Beach Park Facilities from far end (R) Picnic shelter in park (1 Jan 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

In the morning, the water pipes were frozen and the puddles of water in front of the restrooms were solid ice. I guess it was cold. On New Year's Day, cruised around the city to see how things had changed. The river walk had been completed from downtown to the Estuary Dam bridge along the Kumgang river bank. Other than that the downtown area, everything seemed to be about the same though the road at the Estuary Dam Park had been changed.

Went to Eunpa Lake -- where I used to live in an apartment overlooking the lake -- and was surprised by the new bridge they built across it -- which is lighted at night as sort of a romantic spot. The road around the lake had changed. It was now one-way through the congested park area and then continued around the lake -- with the exercise path running the complete length. It really had become a very nice park -- one tailor made for people. Besides that there wasn't much that had changed in the area -- but it looked like the apartments that had been planned ten years ago were finally starting to be built along the hills fronting the lake.


Lake Eunpa Bridge (1 Jan 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Exercise path from Lake Eunpa Bridge; (R) Looking south from bridge (1 Jan 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

After that went to Kunsan AB and was happily surprised as many of the old BX employees stopped by to say hello and chat about old times. The base seemed half-deserted, but perhaps it was because it was New Year's Day and the folks might have been sleeping off the revelry of the night before. Had a hamburger at the Food Court and headed down to A-town (America Town).

In A-town, I just wanted to see how it had changed and was pleasantly surprised that it finally tore down that useless wall that surrounded the town from the 1970s. In its place was benches and trees that acted as a divider. I used to buy my pirated DVDs from a shop in the town, but it had moved. Kind of saddened that the game room that my "brother" used to run was gone. In its place was Mama's Restaurant that had moved down a few shops. The place looked basically the same and the old Arirang Restaurant was still open for business. Stopped into the shops in the old parking lot and bought myself a few caps and a T-shirt. Outside the A-town gate, the sides were now lined with small shops that had been relocated from the Yah-hwa dong area downtown after the GI shopping closed down there. In all, A-town still remained a tacky bar row.


(L) A-town Entrance from Parking lot; (R) Shops in Parking lot (1 Jan 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) A-town Parking lot and entrance to bar row on right; (R) VIP looking up the row to the Las Vegas (1 Jan 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Nobles looking down toward Wolf's Den; (R) Loading Zone (1 Jan 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

We anticipated a slow ride back and we were not disappointed. Most of the way the traffic was flowing at about 80kmph or less as folks headed back to Seoul from the holiday. This made for a long ride -- especially waiting to get a service station to use the restrooms. In all, I enjoyed the reminiscing in revisiting Kunsan.

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February 2007

Side Trip: Sapgyoho Resort Area, Chungcheongnam-do (Feb 2007) The weather had turned almost spring-like at the end of Feb -- with temperatures rising to be "sweat-shirt and vest" weather. Jumped into the jalopy and headed to the Pyeongtaek seawall on the weekend. Went down to Anjung and turned down Route 39 to the Ansan Seawall (Ansanman). Went across the Seawall and turned right to Route 34. Continued straight through Sinseong (with its sundry tourist spots like Botanical gardens) onto Route 77 and down past the Hyundai auto plant. Went across the Sapgyocheon Seawall continued to the other side. At the end of the seawall, turned right into the Sapgyoho Resort Area in Chungcheongnam-do.

Parking was a 1,000 won -- and one can see that in summer this place would be packed. The tourist site had loads of seafood restaurants and coffee shops. Along the main street street vendors sell fresh seafood items. Bought some bottled crab for 10,000 won. Everything from shellfish to sea cucumbers to squid and fish were available. One old lady was handing out free samples of turnips to get you to buy -- but I'm no turnip connoisieur.

The park area was very neat and clean with the typical monuments and touristy stuff. There was the typical stick your head through the hold photo stop and a Beetle museum with a big 10-foot horned beetle figurine for picture taking. There is a monument to the rice farmers in the little park.

In the park there are small pavilions for use for picnicking in the summer facing the harbor. Along the seawall, some individuals were fishing with spin casters. However, from this location the view of Pyeongtaek harbor with the Seohae Bridge (East Coast Bridge) in the background was well worth the trip. The illusion is that the water actually looks blue from there -- because it is the deep part of the Dangjin-Pyeongtaek Harbor. The backdrop of the Seohae bridge with the ships anchored in the harbor was very impressive.

There is a military museum there where many Korean movies have scenes shot. Cost is 5,000 won for entrance -- but who what the price will be during tourist season. From all the publicity shots with familiar Korean movie stars at the entrance, I presume this is a popular set for Korean movies and TV shows. There is an old Naval coastal frigate (?) -- excuse me as I'm not Navy -- up on blocks that the tourists can go aboard and sit behind anti-aircraft guns and look into the crannies of the ship. Inside there are old APCs and military vehicles. The museum is actually more for kids with lectures for the kids and allowing them to touch everything -- including sitting behind an anti-aircraft gun and poking about into a real naval vessel. There are other tourist things to do in the area, but most are for the summer trade. Anyway, it was a nice side trip and really not very far.

On the return trip, we checked out a different way back taking Route 34 to Dunpo and then Route 45 through Paengseong past Camp Humphreys to south Pyeongtaek -- then back to Songtan. We do NOT recommend this route if you're going to Sapgyoho as it is a longer and boring drive with not much scenery.


(L) Shelly at Sapgyoho Resort Area (R) Kalani and Shelly at Sapgyoho Resort Area (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Pyeongtaek Harbor with Seohae Bridge in background (R) Sapgyoho Resort Area looking north (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Sapgyoho Resort Area looking south with ship on blocks (R) Navy ship on blocks (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Sapgyoho Resort Area (R) Fishing boat at low tide (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Sapgyoho Resort Area boat ramp (R) Street lined with restaurants (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Seafood for sale (R) Crabs in front of restaurant (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

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Side Trip: Gangneung, Gangwon-do (Feb 2007) Took a short trip up to Gangneung on 24 Feb and camped on the beach. Yes, it was cold, but not true winter weather -- more like early spring.

This trip was more of a scouting mission looking for good locations for this summer. In driving aimlessly around the city, I noticed what appeared to be a large river surrounded by restaurants and hotels, but later I realized it was a large lake next to the Gyeongpo Beach. Though it was the off-season, the beach was packed in the early evening -- not on the beach, but in the restaurants. It appeared that Gyeongpodae was a popular local area for dining out for both young and old. The facilities are pretty good and the Gyeongpodae Provincial Park (open during summer) just up from the restaurant area looks like a nice place to vacation. You know it's the off-season because the public toilets were still closed.

Camped in the car on Gyeongpodae near a clean public restroom and a small market that remained open late at night. The "villas" -- small cheap rooms just for sleeping -- were still closed as this was the off-season. Along the beach, the life guard towers were all turned over anticipating the summer tourist trade. Sat on the beach and used my gas stove to heat water for coffee and just enjoyed the waves lapping on the shore -- on a beach with sand and no muddy tidal flats. Just loved the clear sand -- though the seaweed was washing up on the beach, the beaches were so clean. I miss the beaches of Hawaii, but this is as close as one gets -- but the water up there is cold even in summer.

However, being the weekend, the young folks were out on the beach at all hours -- shooting off fireworks till about midnight and then stopping by for romantic walks either in twos or in rowdy groups. Didn't break out the tent as it was still too cold for that. As the seat folds down to make a bed, Shelly, my dog, and I shared my sub-zero sleeping bag. The temperatures were not that bad for sleeping. There were a group of other vehicles doing the same -- mostly older couples in vans dressed in hiking clothes who I presumed were going to make an early start to hike in the national parks surrounding Gangneung.

At night, the fishing boats with bright lights were picking up squid that abounds in the area. The lights from the multitude of boats were so bright that it actually dimly illuminated the shoreline on the overcast night. They were all along the horizon making it look like there was a peninsula out there filled with buildings with bright neon signs. Got up early in the morning and used the gas stove to cook some ramien and coffee for breakfast -- then set off to explore the rest of Gangneung.

I was pleasantly surprised that the city was very clean and neat with low-lying buildings versus the high-rise apartments clustered together like a rat's nest in Seoul. The city itself seems relatively small, but a pleasant place to live. Unlike a industrial town like Pohang, this place had a relaxed air about it. The city is geared for the tourist industry with their beaches and Sorak Mountain up the coast a little. There are a lot of "specialty" tourist spots like the Chodang Bean Curd (tofu) Village and Chamson Audio Museum -- which I didn't stop by to see. The Gangneung Railway station is like the typical podunk railroad station left over from the 1970s -- like in Kunsan -- unlike the more modern subway stations we're used to near Seoul. The city bus terminal is located in Ojukheon near the Gangneung City Hall. Overall, I was very impressed with the city.

Drove down to the Anmok Beach area across the Namdaecheon (Namdae river) that divides Gangneung to check things out and noticed this was a relatively sparcely populated area with low-lying apartment complexes along the hills on the outskirts of town. This would be a very pleasant place to live. Being a history buff, it is also the location of the 13th Fighter Wing (ROKAF) at the historic Gangneung AB where the US Marines first operated from and then the first ROKAF wing operated F-51 Mustangs from during the Korean War. The Gangneung Airport shares the runway with the ROKAF.

We've been to Tonghae down the road a few times before and really like the area. However, it is a small town compared to Gangneung with its commerce centered on fishing. Very friendly people and nice area to visit, but not much to see so didn't go down there. In the early afternoon, I headed back to Songtan satisfied that this summer I would be going to Gangneung again -- but NOT in the max tourist season as I've been stuck in those traffic jams before.


Gyeungpodae Provincial Park, Gangneung (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Gyeungpodae Beach, Gangneung in early morning (R) Making morning coffee (Feb 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

We made a few side trips down to Ulsan in April to check out the area -- and though some of the rocky coastline is quite beautiful -- the rest of the area left me more or less cold. Also I noticed that it wasn't really a tourist center like up north -- being mostly an industrial area with smaller recreational facilities for its populace. The impression I got was that the construction of the recreation areas were still underway -- or perhaps stalled for whatever reasons. The road to the "beaches" were small and weaving along the coastline. The area up at Tonghae still remains in my mind the spot with the best beaches by far.

Unfortunately, the rest of Korea believes so too. This is one reason I will NEVER go up to Tonghae in the peak summer months. I still remember the nightmare a few years ago where it took us 18 hours in bumper-to-bumper traffic to get up there -- and TWO DAYS to get back home -- camping in a parking lot on a side road because all the roads were clogged. Yes, Tonghae is a beautiful place -- but not in the peak tourist season.

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May 2007

Move to Small Office: Kalani's English Club (May 2007) I have been an English teacher in Korea for over 15 years -- and yes, my degree is in education though so outdated that it is worthless. Prior to moving to Songtan in 2005, we had a "hagwon" in Kunsan City -- Kalani Yongau Hagwon (Kalani's English Academy). It was relatively large (1800 sq ft) with a reception area big enough for the kids to play minature soccer in ... until they started breaking the flourescent lights from errantly kicked balls. There were two classrooms, but I only used one. I was used to teaching small classes of up to 10 students each. Adult classes varied in size. My students were always ranked at the top in English on their school tests ... and many of these students went on to go on homestays in America.

In Kunsan, my reputation as a teacher was well-established after having taught English to many of the local hagwon English teachers when they were college students -- and to many of the middle-school English teachers as well. I taught only adults in education, business and local government for 7 years. In fact, in March 2007 I saw a photo in the local newspapers of one of my former students standing next to the 7th AF Commander and new Kunsan AB commander on their visit to the Kunsan City Mayor's Office. Many of my former students went on to become factory managers for large companies throughout Korea and China, while others became English teachers in the public school system. Others went on to get their advanced degrees in Australia and America -- and some even became teachers in America. After teaching English for 15 years in Kunsan, my former students were bringing their children to me to teach them English as well. I still periodically get phone calls from old students who want me to come back to Kunsan to teach.

But in Songtan I was an unknown. When we moved to Songtan in 2005, no one knew me as a teacher and I had to start over from scratch. I had gone into semi-retirement and possessed an F-2 visa -- having given up my E-2 teaching visa when we gave up our hagwon. Being in semi-retirement, I only taught a few kids part-time whose mothers asked me to teach after finding out I was a former hagwon teacher. But personal crises kept interfering with my teaching at home.

Another thing I found out in Songtan was that there were more English hagwons in Songtan with a mere population of 100,000 than in Kunsan with a population of 350,000 plus. The competition is fierce -- and cut-throat. In addition, there are many of the DODs teachers and many dependents who also teach illegally from their apartments in Life, Aju and Dongbu Apartments. Add to this that in Dongbu Apartments where I live, the owners of THREE English hagwons reside. Songtan -- and the Dongbu Apartments -- is NOT a good place to teach English. Throw in the fact that Korea has been in a recession ever since Roh took office as President. The average parents spend 19 percent of their income on education, but now have to scrimp and save to send their kids to English classes. As a result, I teach most of the kids at cost -- as cheap as I can go. (SITE NOTE: For personal reasons, I do NOT want to teach at a hagwon in Songtan on a permanent basis -- though I would consider temporary part-time work if offered. I have been offered $30/hr starting in Osan City and higher salaries in Seoul, but again there are personal reasons why I have declined. I looked at other areas of the country to teach and again was turned off by what I saw. My reasons are based on what I know of the system -- and let it suffice to say that even the US Embassy has a cautionary note of seeking employment in Korea as an English teacher.)

In 2006, we had to move after our lease on our old apartment at Kunyong Apartments expired -- and the owner wanted to sell. We set out specifically looking for an apartment on the first floor -- to minimize the noise from students -- and found our present apartment at Dongbu Apartments. It is a four bedroom and we used one bedroom to teach my old students. However, soon I heard rumors of complaints from Dongbu residents about the noise from my teaching. I then discovered why. Dongbu Apartments had many hagwon owners living there ... and as a former hagwon owner, I know how they react to any home-study teacher who is successful -- and treat him as competition for students. I also found out one of the complainers was an American contractor living upstairs who was also teaching illegally on the side. I didn't want trouble and in May 2007, I moved to a small office across the street in a business building.

However, with the move I lost most of my students because there was a time lapse between stopping the classes and starting anew across the street. Only three of my former students returned. Again I had to start from scratch. I named the place Kalani's English Hagwon (Kalani Yongau Hagwon) because it was next to a beauty salon called the "hair club" -- and being unoriginal, I used the word "club" too. (NOTE: In Pyeongtaek, an "English hagwon" must be a minimum of 90 sq meters -- and this small hole in the wall is hardly that.)


Kalani's English Club: Outside Window Sign (Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

The rent for this new office was relatively cheap because the space had not been rented for over a year. In fact, the next door beauty shop owner said I probably could have gotten the rent down even cheaper -- but that's water under the bridge. Another drawback is that it is on the second floor and no one really notices it in the back corner. In fact, I had lived across the street for one year and I didn't even notice this office space existed. Another drawback is that the first floor hallways looks very dingy from outside -- and is used as storage space for the first-floor businesses. It is understandable why I got the rent so cheap. But since I operate on referrals only, it really doesn't matter. The second thing is that it is next door to the beauty shop (and barber shop) that caters to the Aju apartment complex so everyone knows in this apartment knows that I'm here. The second floor space is shared by a piano hagwon, a beauty shop, and the storage and display space for the bicycle shop downstairs.

Shelly and I now spend a large portion of our weekdays in my small office -- and nap there as well. It is bright and sunny with all the comforts of home (TV, VCR, DVD, computer, microwave, convection oven, a portable gas stove, small fridge, small kitchen facilities, bed, etc.) and I find it a very comfortable place to relax. The space just barely fits the bookcases, desk and other furniture. However, the space has windows that let in the breeze -- when there is a wind -- for very nice cross ventilation. Though it does get stuffy if the breezes die, it is a lot better than other places I looked at that faced another building wall and had no air flow at all. As I have no air conditioner -- only fans -- it can get very stuffy and hot during the summer. (SITE NOTE: I have an oscillating halogen heater for chilly weather as well as a LPG heater for freezing weather, so it should be no problem this winter.)

I even moved my plants over to my little office where they are thriving because of the sun in the room and hallway. The other two shops also like it as the plants brighten up the formerly dingy hallway. At home, the apartment is in the shade most of the day so the plants do poorly there. In fact, last summer most of my plants died from lack of sun and heat stress. Though the new office is not much to look at, it is much more comfortable for my dog and I to stay over at the office rather than stay home. I usually just enjoy watching DVDs there after the few classes I have -- and I usually cook lunch and sometimes dinner there too.


(L) Entrance (Aug 2007) (R) Plants in hallway (Jun 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)




(L) Entrance with sofa and heater; (R) Rightside Copier and Shelly's bed (Nov 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Leftside towards small kitchenette (Jun 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Desk with English computer and sofa; (R) Copier and Korean computer (Nov 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: The sofa was a discard that I hauled up to the office.)

As it stands right now, I have barely enough students to cover the rent and utilities -- but I still consider it worth it. I do NOT have to worry about any more complaints from the residents where I live. I do not advertise and rely strictly on referrals from other parents. If it weren't for my military retirement check, I couldn't afford to teach in Songtan. Considering everything, my hourly rate is just a little above Korean minimum-wage -- like the kids working part-time at restaurants. The bottomline is that I'm actually subsidizing a portion of my students English education out of my own pocket ... but I have no regrets in doing it. My students are special students and are at the top of their classes. These students want to learn English -- and I want to teach them.

What I mean when I say that my students are "special" is that they are students that truely want to learn English. For example, Issac Hwang, a sixth grader at Jisan Elementary, is one of my long-time students. His English listening and speaking skills are advanced, though his vocabulary is still in the elementary levels. (His reading proficiency shows that he is well-above 6th Grade AMERICAN reading comprehension levels, but his vocabulary is still very limited. He is now studying TOEFL as well as TOEIC vocabulary -- if I can keep him awake because it's so boring. He also plays mid-field on his school soccer team and in a competition in June, he was selected as the #3 flute player for school students in Korea. He is also at the top of his class academically.

(Issac Wins Free Trip to Vancouver, Canada (Aug 2007) Issac was selected in a contest sponsored by the Lotte Department Store and Ministry of Education for a special two-week trip to Vancouver, Canada in August. It was part of a competition for all elementary and middle-school students in the Kyonggi-do and Seoul area based on English skills both verbal, academic standing and a string of 10 interviews. On 22 Aug 2007, Issac's trip to Canada was shown on EBS 1 television. There were two adults along -- one was a professor from Kungmin University who was shown giving lectures on the forest while the kids took notes. The other was a representative from Lotte that was explaining about vegetation. Scenes of the kids getting tours in Vancouver, in the National forest and on the seashore picking up starfish. Then there was the shot Issac lying on a fallen tree and giving his comments (in Korean) about the trip. A more typical shot was Issac on his bunk sticking his foot in the face of another boy climbing up on his bunk. Typical kid stuff, but as we watched it together in the class, I felt very proud of this special young man.)

(L) Issac Hwang (Intermediate Level 2) (R) Jackie Hwang and Helena Cho (Beginner Level 3) (Jun 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Hanna Lee, John Han and Jackie Hwang (Intermediate Level 1) (Sep 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

His brother, Jackie (Hwang In-jun) a fourth grader at Jisan Elementary, is also at the top of his class academically and soaks up English like a sponge. He's a black belt in Wushu (kungfu) as well. I started him at the Phonics level and now he's a level-2 Beginner -- ready to start into intermediate level studies. In 2006, he started off with small sentences like "May I have some water, please." but now he can handle simple conversations, but is only hampered by his limited vocabulary. He's like a sponge and keeps asking me questions of the meaning of words he doesn't understand -- sometimes irritatingly as I will be in the middle of trying to explain something else. His mind is sharp and he will progress by leaps and bounds. These are special kids who want to learn English and I'm really happy to have been selected by their parents to teach them.

(Helena Moves to Osan (Aug 2007): His classmate Helena Cho moved to Osan City, the next town over in August. Sad to see her go as she is one of those talkative kids that also wants to learn English. She is well ahead of her peers. I wish her the best. In her place, two students came Hanna and John. John is a sixth grader from Jissan Elementary and Hanna is in the eigth grade. In the current class, Jackie consistently scores "A" or "B" on the tests, while his classmates consistently score "C" or worse. They are new students who are now realizing that my teaching style is a nightmare if you're lazy and don't study. They are learning basic grammar -- with supplemental sheets for TOEIC at a higher level.)

My phonics class is small. Using the methods I developed in Kunsan over the years, I can guarantee that the kids will be reading in three months -- from starting with no knowledge at all. People can't believe this because I don't speak Korean. The first month, I teach them the A-B-Cs and writing the upper/lower case letters and phonetically saying the letters -- and of course, learning to write their names. The second month, the continue phonics and start reading simple sentences -- while expanding on their "sight words." In the third month, the kids continue with the phonics and start reading Dr. Seus books which I've found ideally suited for phonics instruction. As of August, the kids were in month two and can read simple sentences -- though without any real understanding of what they're reading yet. The problem is that they are very young and still don't have good study habits. Thus at this stage they are supposed to be building their vocabulary with sight recognition (using word Bingo and flashcards), but they just don't study.

However, they are actually reading with Phonics!!! By using flashcards, I'm trying to bypass their bad study habits with repetition in class. In October they finished phonics. They have read (Dr Seuss' Green Eggs and Ham and others in the series) -- reading without real understanding as promised, but they have just passed their peers. In Nov they started Children's dialogues for simple conversational sentences and then started with the Let's Go series. These kids are really something -- they can count to twenty and spell phonetically. I like the young ones -- even with their bad study habits (they want to only play) -- because their tongues are so malleable -- meaning I can correct their speech before they become a problem.

But the next step will be the tough part to get them to memorize the "formulas" for structure. The reason it will be hard is because these kids are very young -- without any study habits. This is NOT grammar, but putting simple dialogues together that requires some memorization. For example, they learn "What is this?" "It's an apple." -- then they learn "What color is this?" "It's red." -- then they learn the adjective forms, "It's a red apple." Then they learn plurals, "What are they?" "They are four red apples." Then they substitute "this/these" and "that/those". At the same time, they start memorizing the simple questions: "Can/May I go to the bathroom?" Thus they have the start of simple dialogues -- learning their structure (subject-verb-modifier/object) without learning grammar. These kids are special and will soak this stuff up like sponges -- if only they will study a little.

But I am "special" also in that I select or reject students -- and that is the reason I'm a teacher with no money.


James Chae and Derek Lee (Phonics) (Jun 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Shelly sleeps on the bed or under the table most of the time -- and likes to look out the window when the kids are playing outside. The only problem is that Shelly has to be chained up at times because she is a friendly dog who constantly goes up to people -- and not all people like dogs. Another problem is that Shelly thinks everywhere is hers -- including table tops -- so I have to constantly wipe down the table and chairs. When Shelly wants to run, there is an open rooftop area. Sometimes I go to the Aju Apartment playground in the rear --and if there are no kids around, I'll let her run up and down the slide. Outside the office building, there is an untrafficked area in a corner where Shelly does her "business." Outside she usually just enjoys smelling every blessed thing on the ground as her floppy ears drag in the dirt.


Shelly thinks everything is hers (Jun 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

In Oct 2007, I upgraded two used computers I had laying around to add internet to my office. One computer I use for developing tests and teaching materials, but the kids also use it for English games (monopoly, scrabble, Life, etc.). The other is in Korean (hangul) which I use whenever I need to make announcements in Korean using Hangul Word Processing (HWP). This computer also is used for games if there is a dispute on what game to play -- but its memory is so small, it is really no good for games on CDs.

Free Conversational English: Beginner (Pronunciation) (Aug 2007): I started a free Conversational English class for college students every Monday starting in August -- with a VERY slow start. The first day only one student showed up -- but she couldn't believe it was FREE -- no charge -- no money. Her attitude is typical of Koreans who think anything FREE has a catch to it. Kim Dae-hye (Diane) is a college English major and it was a pleasure to be able to work with an adult again where I could write in IPA script to explain pronunciation, rhythm, modulation, and impacts of elision on words. Five college students dropped by, but only two became regulars. In Oct, the class contained one recent college graduate looking for a job and 4 college students. Not a perfect match, but livable -- but also erratic as boyfriends/girlfriends/social appointments interfere with their attendance. In Nov some housewives popped in and at the end of Nov, the housewives had taken over the attendance.

With the housewives, it is like starting from scratch as they have grammar, but their pronunciation has become more or less solidified. With one college student I was able to help him cure his "s-th" speech problems in a very short time, so the class has value. For others, this was of limited value as they needed free talk. Thus I created a new class in Oct for free talk.

The reason I made this class was (1) get people to know that I exist in this out-of-the-way office; (2) I have spare time with nothing to do; and (3) I just plain enjoy teaching.

Volunteer Teaching a Flop (Sep 2007): In October, I wanted to volunteer over at the Korea Tourism High School on the north side of the base in Seotan-myeon. They said fine and I was to start on 8 Oct. I said I wanted to teach one-hour a day/5 days a week. As it turned out, they only saw a free teacher (full-time) and wanted me to teach four hours a day/ 5 days a week. After hassling with them over the schedule, they decided that they didn't need me. I look at it as their loss.

Free Conversational English: Intermediate (Free Talk) (Oct 2007): Thus my next plan was to start another Free class for intermediate speakers on Wednesday. On 24 Oct I had my first class and one student showed up. On 31 Oct, three showed up -- two college graduates looking for a job and a college student. On 10 Nov, there was no room to sit down as many housewives showed up -- along with the college kid regulars. Unfortunately, some housewives dragged along their children -- which is a no-no. It's not because I don't like kids, but they get bored and start disturbing the class. Also there have been high school kids and middle school kids who wanted to attend as well.

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July 2007

Apartment Problems (Jul 2007): In June 2007, we were actually going to move out of Dongbu Apartments -- and in fact, we already had the movers scheduled and the boxes packed. Of course, being fed up with the Dongbu Apartment management over their anti-pet policy contributed a little. We were not the only disgruntled residents. One man in a wheel chair in May conducted a protest at the main gate area against the management for making improvements without the consent of residents. Unfortunately, he had a heart attack and died soon afterwards -- so the protests stopped. However, I still hear older Korean residents muttering about the management.

But our problem was primarily with the apartment itself -- a place that is very strange. The fact that the apartment was unrented for a long time before us -- a fact that we didn't discover until later -- didn't make us feel any better.

The first clue that the apartment was strange were crosses made with an indelible marker marked on the vinyl floors in all the rooms and doorways when we moved in. It was done by the owner in the Christian belief to prevent evil from entering a room. It is a gloomy apartment year-round as it remains in the shade and even in the day, you have to turn on a light to see. When we moved in we didn't pay much attention to this peculiarity, but I've never been in an apartment that is so dark all the time.

Then in the summer, all my plants on the veranda died because of the stiffling heat and lack of sunlight. I have always had plants and this was the first apartment that I've had this problem. Most of the plants developed root rot -- and fungus started to grow on many of the plants. Most suffered from heat stress and died. We can blame it on the unusual weather last year, but this has never happened to me in all my years of apartment living.

In addition, there were continuous mechanical malfunctions. Originally in 2006 the door was found to periodically remain ajar. It was a alignment problem with the latch and was repaired by the landlord. But after it was "fixed," the code lock alarm intermittently went off when you left and you had to rekey it to shut the alarm off. I replaced the batteries multiple times (just to eliminate the batteries as the problem), but it did not cure the problem -- and we simply lived with it. However, after many months it started to grate on one's nerves. On 7 Jul the door ajar problem reoccurred. It would lock and then unlock itself. I discovered this at 2 am when I was getting a drink of water and I noticed the outside hallway light coming in around the front door. The door was ajar. I replaced the batteries again and it cured the problem -- for a little while, then it did it again. On 20 Jul, my wife told me that the door sometimes did not latch all the way AGAIN. Strange ... like someone is leaving at the same time you are. The door relatches when it is closed, but in Aug, Shelly and I left to go to work and I allowed to door to close automatically as I always do. Only this time, I turned around to get something I forgot inside and I saw that the door had locked -- BUT BEFORE IT CLOSED. The door was held open by the bolt being extended. Replaced the batteries and still living with this problem. (NOTE: A normal person would say the electronic door lock is shot but then we get into the other complaint that there is an abnormal amount of mechanical failures associated with this apartment.)

The worst problems were the abnormal amount of electrical switch and light fixture failures throughout the apartment. The house outlets are wired for 110v, but the 110v lights are not a problem from the wallsockets are not the problem. It's the 220v circuits that are weird. Over the course of a year, we have changed all the flourescent lights and starters in the apartment -- but not the screw-in lights -- something that seemed strange to me. In fact, the living room flourescent light I replaced a few months ago just went out again in Jul 2007. I've never been in an apartment with this many flourescent light failures in the course of a year. Finally in Jun 2007, the master bedroom light died but even after changing the bulb and starters, it remains dead. Thus it is either a switch or fixture problem. The light failures had progressed from lights to now the hardware. It still remains out of commission as I moved a floor lamp into the room to compensate for it.

The outside hall lights at the end of July, started acting up. The lights have burned out periodically but that I figured was normal and didn't pay any attention. Then the lights outside our apartment, in the stairwell and in the hall leading to the elevator all went out -- SIMULTANEOUSLY. Then after the repairman replaced all the lights late at night and left, the light cover falls off by itself and shatters on the ground. Then on 20 Aug, the hallway light and the light outside our apartment both burned out AGAIN. This is not normal for hall lights to go out in less than a month. After August there were no more problems. As of Oct, it seemed to have settled down.

I must say that many 110v electrical appliances have been suddenly going kaput between June and August. In June the large water cooler started leaking all over the floor -- and we simply unplugged it -- to either dispose of it or fix it later. Other small appliances started failing like an oscillating fan that was working fine that simply died on 15 Jul. A rug cleaner that worked fine in my office across the street had the motor seize up when I brought it home to wash the living room rug on 19 Jul. An electric can opener (that never fails) and an electric mixer also went into the trash. In Aug the various 220v appliances using transformers also started going like the hand-mixer. It may be just a coincidence in that they were older appliances ... but all failing within two months is strange.

I don't want to even think about all the internet problems I've had since I moved here. Though the problems were associated with domains (DNS) and the internet server for Songtan being a contractor who won't answer his phone -- and the main company not wanting to take responsibility for the poor service. From 2006-2007, my internet was out for about a total of one month and a half -- and I still got billed for it. What a rip-off. The email was the major headache as there were a lot of people trying to contact me who got bounced emails. This problem with hanvit.com exists till the present when it intermittently simply shuts down -- no explanation, no apology -- only the bill that arrives on time. The only reason I don't change the email to a free service is that so many folks have that email on their computers already. Though this isn't this apartment's fault, it is just one of the many other problems we've experienced since we moved here.

Then there was the gas range that was installed and within a month a repair man had to be called to fix the range. Luckily we had microwave and convection ovens to substitute in the interim period.

Then there were the gas malfunctions. The gas "hondal" system (floor heat) was at first intermittent when we moved in in 2006 -- and then it finally conked out in winter for many days of freezing discomfort. Even after it was "fixed" there was uneven heating of the floor area. Then there is the hot water. I've never had an apartment where the gas heater comes on when washing dishes with COLD water. Yes, you heard me...when you wash the dishes in COLD water, you can hear the gas heater start up. Water leaks, brown water from the pipes, gas range failure, etc. have all happened in rapid fire succession. Of course, the upstairs apartment water leaked ruining the wallpaper in one of the rooms too. The plumbing is strange in this house.

Finally, in Oct 2007, the gatemen who make the rounds of the building noticed that water was running out from under the boiler area. It appears that when the hot water kicked on for the hondol system, the water started leaking onto the ground. We didn't see anything inside because it was the pipes that burst in the floor and being on the ground floor, it went straight outside. Cost 300,000 won to fix that the landlord picked up the tab for.

Then there is the cold. This is the coldest apartment we've ever been in. During the winter, we have to wear sweaters in the apartment with the hondal system on high -- hot enough to cause discomfort for my feet when I'm sitting at the computer. But the heat is uneven. People would think that we should be glad in the savings of electricity in summer. The thing is that you wake up shivering in June with the temperatures outside in the 80s. We sleep under comforters on the beds year-round. However, when it gets REAL hot outside, it gets REAL hot in the apartment. (For example at the end of July, it was 85 degrees outside, but even hotter inside the apartment.) In Oct 2007, the hondol was on and I have a blanket and comforter on the bed to sleep comfortably.

The unexplained creepy events were also disturbing. The automatic entry light at the front door goes on sometimes in the middle of the night -- with no one there. It is bad enough that the code-lock locks and then unlocks itself intermittently and the alarm goes off sometimes when you open the door, but there are other things. It is kind of unnerving to get up at 2 am in the morning to go to the bathroom and suddenly the door entry light goes on with no one there -- and you're ten feet away. With the door sometimes remaining ajar, I get up to look at the door when the entry light comes on for self-protection -- but there's never anyone there. (SITE NOTE: Some people would say it is caused by a breeze as the light is controlled by a motion sensor. But that doesn't explain the light coming on when there is no wind. And it's always in the early morning hours.)

Also there were the intermittent strong smells of scented wood in the closed bedroom -- and sometimes in the living room -- that comes and goes. The smell is something like the wood used in old orange crates -- strong and sickeningly sweet. The fact that the smells are isolated to one area and do NOT move is what makes this strange -- as it disappears after a few hours. In other words, the smells are intermittent but DON'T MOVE when they are present. As for the complex itself, I guess teenagers attempting suicide by jumping from the windows is normal in Korea.

However, the biggest reason we wanted to move was that the utility bills were outrageously high in both winter and summer -- though our usage habits had not changed from our last apartment which was only slightly smaller. Even when we tried to economize, our gas utility bills were THREE TO FOUR TIMES HIGHER THAN OUR NEIGHBORS. Last summer in the Aug 2006, I had a heart attack when I saw my electricity bill for the month. My neighbors' bills (yes, I peeked at their bills in the mailbox to see if my bill was a mistake) were in the 50,000 won range for about 400kw, but mine was in the 300,000 won range for 770kw. Talk about a penalty!!! I expected my usage to be double -- but this was SIX TIMES as much. In the winter, our gas utility bills were out of sight -- running about $300 plus a month, while in the Jun 2007 it dropped to $13 a month. Again my neighbors bills were consistently lower. We couldn't understand why they were so high. I've never had gas and electric utility bills so high in all my life. (SITE NOTE: In June, my electricity/water utility bill was down to about $200 compared to about $350 for January. But my bill was still 50,000 won ($47) higher than my neighbors.)

When we gave the owner a thirty-day notice in May 2007, she was quite distraught because the apartment had remained empty for a long time before. Now that she was no longer working, the demands of making the house payments were difficult. She stated that she wanted us to stay for a long time, but this apartment just was too expensive -- and inconvenient as well due to problems with the Dongbu Apartment anti-pet policy. (NOTE: YES, THE DONGBU APARTMENTS DOES NOT LIKE PETS. But this is another story altogether.) We sympathized with her position, but this house was bankrupting us as our economic conditions took a turn for the worse in Apr 2007. We were going to move out on 23 June, but the owner offered to reduce the rent significantly and we decided to stay a little longer. On 19 Jul in the afternoon, I got a call from "City Bank" that they wanted to come over to confirm that I was still living in the apartment as the owner wanted to rollover her loan and refinance.

However, our things remain packed in boxes in case we change our minds about the move. A room that I taught in was vacated when I moved to my small office in June. It is now filled with packed boxes. The reason I moved to the office was that we started to hear of complaints from the neighbors about my teaching -- even though many Americans were teaching illegally themselves.

Truthfully, I am still considering moving as the apartment no longer suits my needs -- but the only thing stopping me is that the moving costs set you back so much -- and you have to sign a lease. Other small -- though ratty -- apartments can run $350 a month. But that's a large savings. However, the initial layout is rough. One month rent with one month deposit, plus the moving costs which can run about $300-600 with the amount of junk we have. (I threw away a bunch of stuff and moved the furnishing for my office so there is a lot less now.) Though I feel for the owner, I also have to say that I may ultimately have to just leave.

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Korean SPAM

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Pyeongtaek Yeongchae Eumakhwi Concert and Issac Hwang (Jul 2007) On 12 Jul, I attended the Yeongchae Eumakhwi concert for winners of musical competitions throughout the Kyeonggi-do area. It was sponsored by the Music Association of Korea and held at the Pyeongtaek Cultural and Music Center located next to the Pyeongtaek City Hall. I was invited by one of my students, Hwang Insung (Issac Hwang) who had won the musical competition for the elementary school division for the entire Pyeongtaek area. He is one of those special students who is the top student in his 6th grade class at Jisan Elementary School; plays middle on school soccer team; and is a black belt in Wushu (Kung Fu). Now he had also won the elementary school division for the entire Pyeongtaek area. Issac's flute teacher is his uncle in Seoul where Issac dutifully goes every Saturday for his lessons. Of course, I was proud of Issac for his achievement, but I could only imagine how proud his parents were of having such a well-rounded son -- who has excelled in so many areas. Incidentally, Issac also has a younger brother, Jackie Hwang, who mirrors his academic and athletic achievements.

I knew the location of the Pyeongtaek Cultural Center and that the roads in Pyeongtaek are good at guiding you to City Hall, BUT that the signs stop about three or four blocks before you turn off. This would be my first time to the City Hall area and I also knew I was a lousy driver once I get off the main roads -- which lack signs in English after you get away from the Pyeongtaek Train Station area. Luckily, I drove there with two of my elementary school students who were able to guide me to the Cultural Center by reading the Korean signs. Once we got there, I bought a bouquet of flowers for Issac from the flower vendors out front.

I was expecting a typical KBS-style children's musical show, but was pleasantly surprised to find that the preparations were the same as if it were a real adult concert. The winners of the regional performances had their pictures on banners hung in the lobby. The hand bill was professionally printed showing the performers for the concert and their selections. The featured performer was a concert pianist, Nolting Hauff, from the Dortmund Philharmony.


(L) Banner in Lobby of Hwang Insung (Issac Hwang) (R) Hwang Insung playing flute (Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

However, as I looked around at the crowd waiting for the performance to begin, I also knew that this was a young audience -- many coming to support their local favorites -- and not the typical classical music crowd. There were also the parents and families who were justifiably proud of their children's achievement. They stood around in clusters. Though I wanted to sit with the general audience, Issac's parents had me sit with the family in the reserved section.

Once the concert started, I was very pleased that the performers were truly attempting to put on a professional concert. The performers were all decked out in formal dresses, tuxedos or shirt and ties. The performances were professional. It is amazing that there are so many talented kids in Korea. In Korea, kids usually choose the flute, violin or piano in classical music or the traditional music forms. It was obvious that most of the performers had chosen more difficult pieces to show off their skills -- rather than the more popular pieces that might have appealed to the audience.


(L) Choral group (R) Kim Kyuri (Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Unfortunately, after about an hour, the young kids in the audience were running up and down the aisles and parents were chasing them around. Also family members were at the edge of the stage videotaping the event. In this respect, it was just like a KBS children's theatre performance. After an hour in the uncomfortably warm auditorium -- despite the air conditioning -- most of the audience was getting antsy. After two hours, most just got up and left.

There were some virtuoso performances by some of the young performers, but there were also some heart-breaking mishaps. One violinist had her bow string snap near the end of her performance with an audible "snap." I really felt for her as she stopped her piano accompanist and left the stage. Of course, I was prejudiced for Hwang Insung's flute performance, but I couldn't help but be distracted as he kept time with his feet. His notes were clear and his musical performance flawless. Kim Kyuri sang two popular songs with such a powerful voice that is unusual in one so young. Cho Hachong performed on the violin with power and dexterity. I was mesmerized as to how she modulated the notes from loud to soft creating a mood in the music.


(L) Cho Hachong (R) Nolting Hauff (Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

The featured concert pianist, Nolting Hauff, was to add maturity to the event, but his being at the end of the performances after the young audience had lost interest, made his performance less than memorable. Many of the nuances of his notes were lost by the chatter in the young audience and those running to the front of the stage. Because of this, the end of his performance seem abrupt and speedy as though he wanted to get off the stage as quickly as possible. The last and best performance of the evening was the choral group which were mostly elementary school girls with a few boys thrown in. Dressed in Brownie like uniforms, their youthful exuberance overflowed. The energy of their voices were crisp and powerful and a joy to listen to. Unfortunately, we had to leave a little early in the middle of the performance because one of the student's mothers didn't like her being out so late. We got back to Songtan at 10 pm -- a little late for an elementary school student.

EPILOGUE: Issac Placed #3 in Flute for All-Korea Competition At the end of August, Issac had another competition with students from all over Korea. In this competition, he placed third -- not a bad placement. This accomplishment is something his uncle as his music teacher should be very proud of. Of course, everyone is proud of Issac. This was followed by his winning an English competition for all students in the Kyonggi-do and Seoul area in which he along with a group of select kids won a two-week trip (5 Aug-15 Aug) to Vancouver, Canada based on their English ability. This is something that I as his English teacher am extremely proud of.

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Looking for Places to Beat the Heat (Jul 2007) We noticed that in Pyeongtaek the week before that they had turned on the fountains at City Hall and the Cultural Center. There were a lot of people there enjoying the water as the spray would drift over to cool the folks down. The kids were having a great time around that fountain. However, in Songtan in July, the fountains still have not been turned on.

The best spot would be up at Lesports Park at the Songtan Community Civic Center. Heading towards Pyeongtaek, turn left after City Hall and go straight until the road runs into the Civic Center. There is no fountain, but the open areas are nice to picnic on. Lots of open area for kids to play. Nice area IF there is a breeze, but can get stuffy on a hot August day. The best areas are along the road leading up to Eunhae Girls School -- Kyung Mun College. Follow the road that goes behind the Civic Center. The road is lined with trees and any breezes sweep down the road to keep it cool ... that is, if there is a breeze. August is noted for many still, hot days that are miserable.

For those who are more active, there are shady spots up on Buraksan Mountain (alt 148) on the paved walking trails in the hills. There are especially nice shady areas near the Chosun-era historic grave sites. The open areas there make for nice picnic spots. Be sure you bring your water as there are no fountains up there. If you have a bike, this might be a nice spot to beat the heat. If on foot, you can head up the trail from behind the Songtan Girls' Middle School and the walking is nice and easy. It is a pretty easy walk and there are nice rest stops along the way.

There is also the Jisan Park (Songtan Park) with its shaded areas. Finding the access road is a little tricky. From the intersection of the Kunyong Apartment and Jisan Elementary School, go up over the hill. To the right is a small park area with benches under the trees. If you continue on the road over the hill and as you are heading down, turn left into the first small road on the left. Go in a little bit and there is a small dirt road to the left. Drive in and you'll go past a modern Buddhist Temple painted very garishly. You can park in this area. The tennis courts are on the right. You can walk in the woods and find a lot of good spots to picnic. However, like the other spots, the trees limit the breezes and it can get very muggy in August with no breezes. No public toilets below -- you have to go up to the temple where the public toilets are very clean.

Down across from the Kunyong apartments, there is a little park with a waterfall that is turned on during the summer. As of July, they hadn't turned on the fountain yet. It's nice in the summer IF there is a breeze, but the park can be very muggy if the air is still. Though the fountain is nice, you can't dip your feet in the water because it empties into a pool that is fenced off.

At the public park across from the Dongbu Apartments, there is a shower affair for the kids on the hot days, but it also hasn't been turned on as of July. The good thing about this park is that there is a fresh artesian well water source there that has very cold water -- even in the hottest of summer days.

Actually I think the best place this summer will be the little plaza in Dongbu Apartment where the artesian spring flows continuously. You can dip your feet in the water which is cold year-round and it has spigots to get the cold water like the public park across from the Dongbu Apartment entrance. Unfortunately, it is a private plaza -- but truthfully, nobody will know if you're not a resident.

On the weekend of 14-15 Jul I decided to go out to find some other places to beat the heat -- but close to home -- in preparation for the August heat waves. The I-dong reservoir in Yongin was out of the question because the water levels are too low to make it enticing. (See Songtan Events for I-dong condition in July.) However, even though the water levels may be low, it is still a nice place to go that's nearby if you want to camp out -- or spend the day.

Instead, we decided to look around at places in the local area surrounding Songtan.

14 July: Mangi-sa Temple The Jinwi Citizens Park along the Jinwi Stream (Jinwi-cheon) was the first place we looked. Go down Route 1 towards Osan City and turn right into Jinwi (country road 314) at the sign indicating the Park just before the Seotan turnoff. There are some good restaurants along this road. Just follow the road down for about five miles and it is on your right. You have to keep your eyes open because it is easy to miss. During the summer months (Jul-Aug), you have to pay to enter the park. Unfortunately, I had Shelly, my dog, with me and there is a "no dogs allowed" policy now in effect. Got turned away at the gate.

If you don't have a dog, it's a nice place to camp with a small playground for the kids and the water is shallow enough for the kids to play in -- though I certainly wouldn't vouch for the water quality. Forget about fishing in the stream in the area as there is nothing there. The bad thing about the park is that there is no shade -- but people set up their tents there to compensate. There is a small store outside the park for small items you forgot. If you have a tent or shade cover, it's a nice place to spend the day relaxing -- though a bit boring as there is nothing of interest around. On a hot day, it would probably NOT be my first choice.

Decided to look at Mangi-sa Temple just up the road. The Temple itself is very pretty and the Buddha images inside are very beautiful. In the large parking lot below the temple is the bell tower. At the far end of the parking lot, there is a fresh water spring with a faucet where people come to get spring water. I parked in the parking lot and found it an ideal place to polish the car along the tree line out of the direct sun. Shelly, though didn't like being on a long leash, but dogs on the loose are not welcome there.

The hills surrounding the temple are filled with hiking trails amidst tall trees -- though the underbrush can be thick in summer. Wear long pants for hiking if you scratch easily. Many Koreans go there to hike in the hills on the weekends. (SITE NOTE: Went back in Dec and there was a lot of construction going on to add an addition to the complex. A stone pagoda had been added with the eight gods in relief around the base. Another temple building was being constructed on the upper tier -- but the goldfish (koi) pond was still there though overgrown around the edges. In the parking lot, construction sheds had been parked -- and it looked like they were cutting timber to be used in the temple. Stacks of lumber were set out to cure. Sadly they had wrapped up the outdoor statues for the winter so it seemed rather dull -- but then it started to snow and the temple seemed so tranquil and the scene was unbelievable in its serenity.)


Mangi-sa Temple


(L) Mangisa Cholji Iron Buddha (Treasure #567) (R) Gilded statue outside the Temple Hall

Went to the area below the parking lot under the trees to eat a picnic lunch -- consisting of bologna sandwiches as no open fires allowed. However, it was a bit muggy as the trees blocked the breeze, though the shade was nice. In Aug, however, it might be a little too hot for picnicking.


Mangi-sa Temple

15 July Went down to the stream (Jinwi-cheon) in Seotan and it did NOT look like a good spot to beat the heat. I used to go down there in the undeveloped area (near the Golf driving range) to fish for fun -- and barbecue. I used to park right along the stream next to the crossing as it was a nice spot with spilling water. Unfortunately, they've blocked off that area now. The bad thing is there is no shade in the area -- and going under the Seotan overpass road for shade is not a good idea. It is a rather ratty area where construction workers gather after work to drink. Noticed how stuffy it was and figure that the heat would be trapped there in August. If there was no breeze, it would definitely be uncomfortable.

Up the road a ways heading to Osan City, there is a new city park. It was completed in 2007 along the route of the stream (Jinwi-cheon) -- with a bike path and benches to relax on. This end of the Osan City park (towards Seotan) might be okay, but the lack of shade was a definite minus for beating the heat. You'd need a tent cover for shade. One section of this park has some very noxious smells from the drains, but the rest of the area seems ok. I would not fish in this area though I noticed a lot of Korean fisherman there. Mostly undeveloped land at this end so nothing to stop the breezes. Might be an area to consider.

Continued down along the road to the Osan Park down near Osan College and it was crowded with picnickers in the shaded areas. I like to come down here in the spring to read a book on the benches in the shade. It is quiet and has a nice, peaceful atmosphere. However, if I don't keep Shelly on a leash, she'll sneak down to the stream to nose around. Along the stream (Jinwi-cheon) there are not too many people, but the open area is without any shade. The only place for shade is under the bridge over the stream. There are usually picnickers under the bridge area during the weekends. In the August heat, this might NOT be a good choice as I figure a lot of Osan residents would be down there to beat the heat. Public toilet not the cleanest, but better than the beaches where the toilets are overflowing with poop from max numbers of people.

17 July: Won Kyun's Tomb On 17 Jul, Constitution Day in Korea, we got bored and went out to Gen Won Kyun's tomb -- a contemporary of Admiral Yi Su-Shin. Some say that his reputation was denigrated in order to elevate Yi Su-shin's. But the history lesson is another topic. To get there, simply head straight from Osan AB towards Route 1. Cross Route 1 and past Songbuk Elementary School and keep on going. The road twists and turns, but after driving in the country for about five minutes you'll come to a 4-way stop light. Turn right (to Dongmakji) and keep going straight until you pass the National Handicap College with its stoplight. Continue on until the next four-way stop. Turn left. After a minute, you'll see the Kum Gang Roo Restaurant on your right. At the stoplight turn left and go up a small road that veers right. You'll see the tomb in the distance. You can park at the Won Kyun Library parking lot and walk in -- or drive up to the base of the tomb.

Anyway, when we went out there, it remained the same spot that is an excellent place to picnic in the shade. The grounds are well-manicured making it a nice place to picnic. When we got there one group had just finished their picnic and were leaving -- carrying fishing poles so I assumed that they had tried their hand at fishing there as well. There are no open fires allowed. There were many people fishing around the small pond (Naeri-jeosuji) -- and more arrived as we were leaving. Most of the people were using casting rigs for bass or carp...though I've seen others using the Korean fishing rigs for blue gill. Truthfully, though, I have not seen anyone catch anything out that pond since we started visiting there -- and I am starting to believe that there really isn't any fish there. I don't even try to fish there. If there is a breeze, this is an excellent site to spend a hot day. Even if you fish and catch nothing, you can spend the day casting and picnic in the shade of the trees.


(L) Gen Won Kyun's Library (R) Won Kyun's tomb at top of hill overlooking the pond (Naeri-jeosuji) (Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Path Leading up to Tomb (Jul 2007) (R) Statues around Tomb (Sep 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

At the intersection where you turn left into the Won Kyun Tomb, there is the Kum Gang Roo Restaurant on the right. I consider it a semi-fancy restaurant -- and we ate there in Apr 2007. However, I am used to eating in the more common types of family restaurants and don't go to these fancy places very often. We ate upstairs in the setting of artsy furniture and large banquet table. I was very impressed by the fancy presentation and taste of the foods -- that I kept trying to guess the ingredients on some dishes to try them at home. I would rate the service and food presentation "excellent." One thing that caught my eye upstairs was a large golf statue there and I wondered if there was a golf course nearby. I guessed the owner was a golf addict. However, when I left, I saw the golf course -- a minature golf course next to the restaurant parking lot.


Kum Gang Roo Restaurant (Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

22 July: THE IDEAL SPOT CLOSE TO HOME Found the spot I was looking for. It is nothing much to look at, but it has the prime ingredients I was looking for -- water, a peaceful setting and a place to camp -- though the lack of a porta-potty nearby might be a detriment to camping there.

On 22 Jul, I went up towards Yongin and decided to check the stream that originates from the Idong Reservoir. Following the route past the Jinwi Citizens' Park and the Mangsi-sa temple, you continue on past the Italian restaurant & summer camp on the right. Go past this restaurant and you come to a "T" intersection. Go straight to the underpass (under National Highway 1) that only one car can squeeze through. Continue straight past the flower greenhouses that line both sides of the road until you hit the "T" intersecton. Turn right onto Country Road 310. Go over the small bridge and continue until you see another bridge.

At the bridge you can turn left on either side of the bridge. The nearest left road goes up the river and is less frequented, though I saw folks on that side. Saw that there were porta-potty setups on that side. I went up the farther side road to the left. (I did not explore the road to the right, but it did not look like it was well-traveled and I didn't see any people in that direction.)

At the bridge itself there were many people along the stream (Jinwi-cheon) with kids playing in the water. People were picnicking in the shade of the bridge. Normally the water is down a little lower and moves slower ... and a lot of fisherman are around this stream in spring and summer. The stream was up a bit because the waters from the Idong reservoir was used to irrigate the rice fields -- and the rice fields runoff water was flowing back into the stream.


The bridge in background. In the middle, kids are playing in stream with picnic on edge of stream (29 Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Parking is along side the narrow dirt road. The drawback is that there are only a few places where one can turnaround on this road with cars parked along the side. Continued up the dirt road and there are spots on the stream that have small spillways where the people had stopped to let the kids play. Continued up the road until there was a steep dip in the road. The water was flowing into the stream from the rice fields and the water appeared to be about one foot at the bottom of the dip. Trucks were parked in the runoff with people in the covered backs of the trucks keeping cool.

Went through the dip and continued up the road. There were other areas where people had stopped where there was small clearings along the stream and the kids were playing in the stream. Continued on until I got to a bridge on the left. Turned left and parked on the bridge.

The road leads to the little village of Bongmu just below the Idong reservoir (Idong-yeosuji). It has very little except a few stores for necessities. If you turned right at the bridge, it will take you to the stoplight on the road (country road 314) where you turn left to Idong Reservoir. (NOTE: An alternate route to this site is to go over the bridge and continue down country road 310 to the 4-way stoplight. Turn left onto country road 314. Go straight until the next 4-way stoplight and turn left to Bongmu. Go straight until you hit the bridge. The dirt road leading under the bridge is on the left.)

This looked like a nice spot to me. Didn't bring my digital camera so I don't have any photos, but the place wasn't really a scenic spot. The lower parts of the stream were rather close to a hill on one side which would lead to it being hot in the summer if the wind is coming from the wrong direction -- or there is no wind at all. This spot near the bridge opened up on both sides to rice fields with no hills nearby. This makes it a cooler spot on the hot days. If anyone has camped in the mountains in the valleys during summer, you can understand how miserable it gets when there is no breeze. There was an open area that looked like it would be suitable for camping. The one criteria that it failed to meet was a porta-potty nearby. They were all downstream a little ways. Need to check this out.

As I have Shelly with me, I need to have an area were she can run around in and be relatively free of people that might be afraid of dogs. Though Shelly doesn't bite, other folks don't know that. Under the bridge there were a lot of people picnicking in the shade. Kids were playing in the shallows and there was a young man pushing his wife around in an inflatible raft. In the middle of the stream, it was about three feet deep. The kids were having an especially good time splashing water on each other. Later on there were people who came to fish from the banks with long poles using worm for bait. Was tempted to break out the poles too, but the water was running a little swiftly so I doubted that the fishing was any good. At the water's edge, I could see the grasses under water meaning that the stream was normally much lower.

Further up the stream, there looked like there was a fairly large clearing with a lot of people were gathered. A lot of tents could be seen in the distance. Someone was flying a remote control aircraft from up in this area. This spot looks like it is popular as there is a traditional Korean restaurant along the road with a Korean-style gazebo overlooking the stream.

There was a nice breeze and the skies were slightly overcast so it was not hot. The spot I chose was not under the bridge, but in the open. It was an area that had a concrete wall along stream's edge. Though out in the open, it was not hot because of the overcast. However, on a sunny August day, I might have to break out the tent for shade. The place had a lot of old campfires around so this was a popular spot on weekends.

Took my folding chair -- a comfortable design with fabric armrests. With my Polo sunglasses and my Panama hat, I was set to kick back and relax along the stream. Took out my book, State of Fear written by Michael Crichton. (SITE NOTE: Incidentally, Crichton's been one of my favorite techno-scifi authors with bestsellers like Andromeda Strain, , and Timeline. Unfortunately, the plot of this book was kind of weak -- to the point of being unbelievable at times -- and not one of Crichton's best novels. The book published in 2004 is about eco-terrorism and debunks the global warming theory (ala Al Gore). Though not a scientific book per se, it has lots of graphs and makes a solid case against the popular theories of global warming causing all the ills of the world. However, these same views are what I'm reading on the internet as people are questioning the Al Gore-form of global warming hysteria.)

With overcast skies and no sun beating down, I didn't have to worry about shade. It was a very nice place to sit and read a book. Let Shelly roam up and down the banks until she found a nice cool spot to lay down on next to the stream. After a while, Shelly started to whine as she was hungry -- and she saw all the other folks along the stream eating. I had a picnic lunch of rice, vienna sausage and omelette in sweet chili sauce which I shared with Shelly. Headed home about 7pm as the sun was setting.

29 Jul: I-dong Reservoir Flooded Though the temperatures were about 85 degrees all week, the humidity stood at around 60-65 percent making things humid and muggy. The weather is getting to be insufferable. The miserable days of August are just around the corner. Received reports that Idong Reservoir was filled to the brim -- with water up to the banks. Intended to go up camp, but the forecast was for showers in the area on 29 July so put that off. In the morning it was intermittent showers. Around noon the skies turned dark as night and there was some lightning and thunder, but it passed by the afternoon and the skies cleared a bit. (SITE NOTE: This same storm killed five climbers in mountains near Seoul, while six other climbers were injured. Two men and two women were struck and killed around noon near a hill at Bukhan Mountain, northeast of Seoul, when heavy rains swept through the area. Another climber was also killed and two others injured by lightning when they were climbing Surak Mountain bordering Seoul.)

Went up to Idong and it was true that the water was up to the edge. In the early part of July the waters had been fed for the rice crops and the water was WAY DOWN. (SEE Idong WAY DOWN (Jul 2007)) However, now it appears the monsoon rains have started to swell the reservoir again. Some die-hard folks were fishing on the edge, but most fishermen avoided the reservoir until it goes down a bit. In fact, while I was up there saw a lot of cars stopping along the edge to check if there were any fishing spots -- only to be disappointed and drive on to stop another hundred yards or so down the road -- and so on. However, for water skiiers, it was ideal as I observed two sets of ski boats down near the levee side of the reservoir.


(L) Idong Reservoir: Fishing at the high-water mark edge (R) High water (29 Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) High water looking north (R) High water at levee with water skiing boats (29 Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Checked below the reservoir levee to see if the sluice gates had been opened to add to the water in the Jinwi Stream -- hoping to find a good fishing spot. It's got a fancy bridge with decorative metal grillwork that is completely out of place in the farm countryside. It spans a small stream and only runs if the sluice gates are open. However, it was drier than a bone there. There was just a trickle in the stream -- a lot less water than seen the Jinwi Stream.

29 Jul: THE PERFECT SPOT CLOSE TO HOME Went down to the spot on the Jinwi Stream I described on 22 July, but this time went up on the other side of the bridge. At the bridge, there was a group of older people there that had brought their own sound system -- complete with generator. Nothing like Karaoke on the banks of a stream -- but for me, this would be a little too much. I come out to commune with nature and to dip my feet in the stream. I know that singing is part of the Korean psyche -- but I'm just not an aficiando of Karaoke -- and especially not when I'm trying to relax.

I saw a few tents, but I don't think they were from before because of the storm that passed through the area. Because of the rain previously, there was not the mass of people I expected -- though the bridge at country road 310 was packed with people and tents.
At the site where I was at, I went over to the side with a restaurant and gazebo, the road narrows into a one-car road. There are porta-potties set up along the road. Went up to where I'd seen the remote control aircraft flying before -- and I could see that they were still at this weekend. At that point, there is a side road that goes down a steep incline onto the flat area where it levels off. The remote control aircraft enthusiasts were clustered there -- in fact, they had turned it into a landing field complete with windsock. Drove through this area and went down another small dip to the stream bed. The stream split into a "Y" in this area. Parked along one rivlet with a rock stream bed. The area was well-used by campers as I noticed that there were areas where the stones had been cleared and packed into circles.

As on my previous visit, I took out my folding chair and a book, Death of a Tsar by Robert Marcum. I positioned the chair next to the stream because there is nothing as peaceful as the sound of rippling water flowing over the rocks. With my Panama hat and dark glasses, it was a nice place to just sit, read and relax. This area not suitable for fishing as the stream was very shallow here and the water too swift on this day.

Because of the previous storms, the sky was still overcast with clouds so it was comfortable without any sun beating down. Put out some water for Shelly so that she could roam around. However, the only excitement for her was when she flushed out some birds that were hiding in the high grass. But soon the heat got to her. She found that it was much easier to sit on my lap in the chair -- but if you're trying to read a book, a dog blocking the pages is a no-no. She had to settle for the shade under the chair.


People in stream where it forms a Y. Note kid with tube. (29 Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

But the site also proved to be quite entertaining -- somewhat like an airshow with front row seats. The site that I chose was being used by the remote control aircraft club. These folks were not the types who buy the prefabricated remote control toys -- these guys were fanatics. As I passed by their lines of cars, these folks were all working on their aircraft from tool boxes packing the back of their SUVs. There were all kinds of aircraft flying and some did some spectacular stunts. One was a remote control helicopter that performed stunt aerobatics right above my head -- with the chopper even flying upside down -- and even remaining stationary while upside down. Another was an remote control aircraft in an racer configuration. One stunt floored me. The aircraft remained stationary in a VERTICAL position -- something I'd never seen before. Though the noise when close was distracting, the people mostly flew their aircraft in pattern far away from the where I was.

In addition, in the skies above, three powered paragliders were circling and would sometimes buzz the stream to the enjoyment of those along the banks. The kids were enjoying these flybys of the streams immensely. The paragliders have a motor in the rear and the pilot sits in a harnessed seat and manuevers the paraglider by directing the flow of air from the propeller. One was a tripod-landing gear configuration, but the other two were what looked like simpler versions. These folks also used the landing strip of the remote control enthusiasts -- with their wind sock for their takeoffs and landings. However, it was obvious that the hang gliders were really enjoying themselves -- as the conditions were perfect for them -- and they were still in the air when I left.


Two of the powered hang gliders that were buzzing the stream. Notice the windsock on the right photo. (29 Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Powered paraglider (R) Kid using scoop net to fish for minnows (29 Jul 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

People were everywhere eating their picnic lunches and letting their kids play in the stream -- and more arriving after we got there. After a while, we broke out our lunch of cold spaghetti and brown bread. Though I had Cokes in a cooler, the ice water proved a much better beverage. As usual, Shelly shared the spaghetti, but she had to have a bath when we got home because her ears always ends up in her food. At about 6:45 decided to head home as the sun was starting to set. I must say that I enjoyed the day just relaxing at the stream.

Though there are probably better locations around Pyeongtaek Harbor, I -- not being a resident of the area -- don't know where the good places are. If I find them, I'll post it here. Still have to check out the fishing farms -- one in Pyeongtaek (next to Meon reservoir (Meon-seosuji) near the Pyeongtaek District Court) and one in Anjung (that my nephew found). These are the ones where you pay for the fish by the pound -- all you can catch. However, I'm not much of a fish eater -- except boneless fillets -- so these might not be the best places for me. (When I fish, I let the fish go or give them away.)

There is one fishing pond close to the base in Seotan. Take the road leading to the back gate off Route 1. Heading towards the gate, you will come to a stop light. Turn right and go straight to the next stop light. Turn left. Go straight until you see a large housing area to the right. Go past it and at the next stop light turn right. You'll see the fishing pond to the right.

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August 2007

SIDE TRIP: Deoksu Palace (Aug 2007) On 2 Aug, my daughter and I visited the Deoksu Palace because the US Embassy was closed for lunch. After trying to stay cool and getting an ice cream at a 7-11, we decided to visit the Deoksu Palace which is a short distance from the US Embassy. Built during the mid-fifteenth century, it is the smallest of Seoul's palaces. Though most of the structures are fairly recent reproductions of the original palace built in the 15th century, the main gate is over five-hundred years old. Many local business men and women use the picnic area during lunch as a short escape from the hustle and bustle of downtown life, but on this day none were evident because of the heat.

The temperature was 86 degrees Farenheit (30 degrees Celcius) -- and the wind was not blowing. It was miserably hot and humid. After walking a short distance, it felt like you'd been drenched in hot water. It had been a long time since I had visited it so it was nice to observe all the changes -- and the on-going renovations to the structures and landscaping. For example while there, we observed the workmen planting underground lighting for the trees which should make it a romantic nighttime spot in Seoul. It's a natural as it is a favorite spot for taking wedding pictures -- atleast in the cooler months.


Deoksu Palace Entrance (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Daehanmun gate. Originally named "Daeanmun" (Great Peace Gate), it was renamed "Daehanmun" gate (Great Han Gate) in 1906 to promote the (then) fiction of Korea as a strong, independent nation. Daehanmun means "Great Han Gate," as the name of Korea at this time was "The Great Han Empire." Originally this main gate to the palace faced south. Later, it was moved to face the east and burnt down in 1904. Rebuilt in 1906, its name was changed to Daeanmun. The three Chinese characters for Daehanmun were written by Nam Chongchol, the Mayor of Seoul.

Deoksugung was originally the residence of Prince Wolsan, the older brother of King Seongjong. This residence became a royal 'palace' during the Seven-Year War after all of the other palaces were burned in 1592 during the Japanese invasions of the Seven-Year War. In 1593, King Sonjo took up temporary residence in a villa which had been built for prince Wolsan (1454-1488). King Seonjo was the first Joseon king to reside at the palace. After the official palace was moved to the rebuilt Changdeokgung in 1618, it was used as an auxiliary palace for 270 years and was renamed Seogung (West Palace).

The ruler, King Kwangaegun, was crowned in this palace and named the temporary residence Kyongun-gung. In 1897, King Kojong expanded the palace to make it suitable as the seat of government. King Sunjong later stayed here, renaming it Deoksu-gung (Palace of Virtuous Longevity). This palace includes some of the best examples of royal architecture of the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) and has been designated as Historic Site #124 by the central government for preservation and protection. Sokchon-jeon Hall now houses the Royal Museum.

In 1897, after the incident when Emperor Gojong took refuge in the Russian Embassy, he returned to this place and named it Gyeongun-gung again. Expansion of the facility followed after his return. After Emperor Gojong abdicated the throne to Emperor Sunjong, he continued to live in this palace. The palace was then renamed Deoksugung, wishing for the longevity of Emperor Gojong.


(L) Statue of King Sejong near Entrance (R) Jukjodang Hall (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Jukjodang Hall (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Junmyeong-dang and Jukjo-dang Halls are connected by a two-kan long covered corridor. Jukjodang Hall, a royal living quarter, was rebuilt in 1904 following destruction by fire. King Kojong lived in Junmyeong-dang while Queen Om (his second consort) lived there. It is seven kan across the front and three kan on the sides, and has a hipped and gabled roof.

King Sunjong ascended the to throne in this building which is located to the north of Chunghwa-jeon. Burned in 1904, it was rebuilt later in the year. It is 7 kan wide across the front and 4 kan deep on the side, but this simple and well-proportioned building is not large enough for royal living quarters. An open wooden floor is provided in the east front of the building. The Woltae terrace is high in relation to the building and a corridor connects it with Chunmyong-dang to the west. Kings Kwanghaegun (r.1608-23) and Injo (r.1623-1649), the 15th and 16th rulers of the Choson Dynasty, ascended the throne in this hall. Kwibi Om, the royal concubine of King Kojong, resided here from 1907 until her death in 1911. This structure was built in 1904, the same year the original hall was destroyed by fire. A sub-floor heating system called ondol heats the two enclosed rooms.


(L) Deokheong Hall Side Gate (R) Deokheongjeon Hall (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Detail of Junmyeondang Roof (R) Jukjodang Hall (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Junghwajeon Hall side gate (R) Hamnyeongjeon Entrance Gate (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Jeonggwanheon Hall (R) Jukjodang Hall (rear) (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Jeonggwanheon Hall, built in 1900, was a party house for King Gojong. It is the first European-style architecture in a Korean royal palace. Junmyeongdang hall was where King Gojong received foreign diplomats.


(L) Kalani at Seok-eodang Hall Garden (National Art Museum) (R) Boram at Garden (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


National Art Museum Garden with Building under renovation in Background (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


National Art Museum (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Garden in front of Seok-eodang hall (National Art Museum), designed by G. R. Harding in 1900 and completed in 1910. This was the first Western-style garden ever made in Korea.
Junghwajeon Hall (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Junghwajeon Hall (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


(L) Haet'ae Dragon on stairs up to Junghwajeon Hall (R) Detail of Roof Supports on Junghwajeon Hall (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

The throne room and audience hall of Deoksu Palace has been designated Treasure #819. King Kojong used it after 1897 when he came to this palace (after leaving the Russian Legation where he had sought refuge after the murder of Queen Min). It stands on a broad, two-tiered stone terrace. In front is a courtyard paved in stone with stone markers that indicate the positions where officials would stand during royal ceremonies. The throne is between the two center-rear pillars. Inside the hall, behind the throne, is a folding screen with a picture of the sun and moon and five peaks, one of the most famous scenes in Korea. A splendid wooden canopy rises above the throne. The building was originally double-roofed, but burned in 1901. Junghwajeon hall was reconstructed in 1902, but it burned down just two years later. It was rebuilt again in 1906.

The roof is hipped and gabled, the most ornate style of Choson period. There are double eaves and especially ornate multi claster-brackets. Recessed in the ceiling are two carved dragons. Bas-relief dragons and a Haet'ae (a mythical fire eating beast that guards from fire) decorate the center stairs and other portions of the building.


Gwangmyeongmun Gate (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Chunghwa-mun gate (designated Treasure #819) is 3 kan (a traditional unit of measure referring to the space between two columns) wide and 2 kan deep. Architecturally similar to Chunghwa-jeon, it includes a multi-cluster bracket structure and a hipped and gabled roof. Because the original Chunghwa-jeon was two-storied, it is assumed that the original Chunghwa-mun was also larger than the present version. The present gate is believed to have been built in 1906 at the same time that Chunghwa-jeon was rebuilt. The gate's columns, like those of the hall, are higher than those of other palatial structures of comparable dimensions.

Gwangmyeongmun gate originally stood south of Hamnyeongjeon hall, but it was relocated during the Japanese occupation and used as a covering for a Buddhist bell from Hungjonsa temple. Cast in 1462, the bell was used in prayers for the serenity of the soul of Queen Shindeok, second wife of King Taejo, the founder of the Jeoson dynasty. The bell has been moved numerous times in its life. When Hungjonsa temple burned in the 15th century, only the pagoda was spared. Unfortunately, the pagoda itself burned in 1510, but the bell survived. It was moved to Dongdaemun (the Great East Gate) and later to Gwanghwamun gate in front of Gyeongbokgung palace. During the occupation, the bell was moved to Changgyeonggung and then transferred here.


Pond near Main Entrance (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

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North Korean Poster used to educate South Korean youngsters by the radical Korean Teachers and Education Workers Union (KTEWU) (6 Aug 2007) (Tongil News) (SITE NOTE: The KTEWU has been in the forefront of teaching anti-Americanism to the young Koreans in the public schools -- while Roh Moo-hyun did nothing to stop this abuse. Instead, he tried to transform the system into an egalitarian form of education that has been a disaster. It will take years to straighten out the damage done by Roh's ideas. Conservatives in 2006 started to fight back -- but this was more for political value than for any true belief in stopping anti-Americanism.)

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Anti-American NGO Protest Up-close: Afghanistan Hostage Issue (Aug 2007) On 2 Aug was the first time I got to see how the anti-American NGO groups took action first-hand. When we went to the US Embassy, at the front door for US citizens stood the Rev. Han Sang-ryul, part of the Solidarity for Peace and Reunification of Korea and active participant in any anti-US protest. We've observed him over the years at Yongsan demonstrations and down at Pyeongtaek in the Daechuri protests, but this was the first time we have seen him in person. Having covered these demonstrations on my web pages for years, it was neat to observe how they had ran their operation up close. They've had ample practice since they have done this same routine -- with different anti-US topics at numerous locations over the years.


Rev. Han Sang-ryul at Embassy Door (2 Aug 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Later we found out that the NGO Solidarity for Peace and Reunification of Korea has held a one-man relay vigil near the U.S. Embassy since 31 Jul, calling the Bush administration the "main party" responsible for the abduction of 23 Koreans by the Taliban. It was lunch time (11:30) so the door to the US Embassy was locked. However, there was the Rev. Han Sang-ryul, giving an interview two television cameramen while two women observed. This was how they get their views out in time for the evening news. They call a press conference in front of the US embassy -- in the midst of the ROK riot police to give it a sense of tension. In fact, there were four riot policemen stationed within ten feet of him. The location is important. The other side of the Embassy has long lines of Koreans wanting visas to leave Korea. If they were positioned there, the visual message would get confused.

No other protestor was there as Rev. Han held up his little sign and gave his spiel to the video cameras. The sign in the shape of a "U" carried the pictures of the 21 remaining hostages on one side and the message in hangul that "Bush Must Repent." This was not a request for US help -- this was a demand that the US intervene as they percieve that the US was responsible because it had initiated its "war on terrorism." The message was not logical -- but it was not meant to be. It was meant to incite an emotional response in the Korean populace by manipulating the press to reinforce their message of anti-Americanism. They started this protest on 31 Jul after the shock of the second kidnap victim being shot. If a third victim is killed, Rev Han's group will then jump up and down and say, "I told you so. The Americans killed the hostage by their inaction." This same message is being sent out by the Uri Party politicians and left-leaning presidential hopefuls.


Protestor with Sign (2 Aug 2007) (AP) (NOTE: The sign has the pictures of 21 kidnappees -- not the original 23. This indicates the demonstration was planned AFTER 31 Jul when the second hostage, Shim Sung-min, was executed.)

Though a rotating one-man vigil posed no threat to American citizens queued in line waiting to enter the Embassy through a door only 5 feet away, the embassy should have asked that Rev Han's protest be held 50 feet away from the business entrance. The purported excuse would have been because it impeded business flow. This would have caused his protest to be held in front of a brick wall (on either side of the entrance) and greatly diminished his visual impact of his protest -- held as a dog-and-pony show for the Korean press. This would have limited the visual impact of his interviews. His protest appeared on the TV news on 2 Aug and on the web's Tongil News on 4 Aug.

We walked around to the small park on the side of the Embassy and the NGO group had set up a small tent with kitchen facilities -- set up strategically next to the public restrooms. The tent was open because of the heat -- and there appeared to have been some sort of feeding line set up previously. It appeared that the four or five women were cleaning up after lunch -- and I observed a little later two young men with signs (in hangul) on the back of their vests that said "STAFF." They must have gone out to lunch at one of the many restaurants in the area. Also noted some styro-foam sheets under the tables which are used to sit or sleep on. The impression I received was that the "one-man relay vigil" was supported by a full-time staff in the park.


Rev. Han Sang-ryul at Embassy Door (2 Aug 2007) (Tongil News) (NOTE: The sign in hangul reads "Bushi Must Repent" and faults the US for not intervening. This picture was posed for the Korean press. Because it was next to the American citizen entrance, there were none of the anti-American images of burning a US flag or images of US soldiers. However, away from the entrance there were such images.)

It is obvious that this group was trying to stir up anti-American sentiment. Some politicians and civic groups in Korea are starting to hold the U.S. responsible for the two-week-old hostage crisis in Afghanistan with remarks that seem designed to stir up simmering anti-American sentiment here. (Source: Chosun Ilbo.) Unfortunately, the protest doesn't make sense. The protestors view the US "war of terrorism" was the trap that ensnared the "innocent" Koreans who were CHRISTIAN "volunteers" in a fanatical Muslim country. Therefore, the US somehow bore responsibility for the hostages that were kidnapped on 19 July. Unfortunately, the US position is that to exchange Taliban prisoners for Korean hostages will encourage terrorists to use similar tactics worldwide. The Afghan government flat refused the exchange of prisoners for hostages because the last exchange released a leader who reorganized his forces after his release and retook an area close to the capital. The ROK is stuck -- but now they are trying to blame the US in its "inaction" in trying to free the hostages. The ROK government which allowed these "volunteers" to enter Afghanistan in the first place, now has told all other "volunteers" to leave the country.

BACKGROUND: On 19 July 2007, 23 hostages were taken by the Taliban to force the release of eight Taliban prisoners held by the Afghan government and US. The 23 South Koreans were kidnapped while riding a bus on 19 Jul on the Kabul-Kandahar highway. They are the largest group of foreign hostages taken in Afghanistan since the 2001 U.S.-led invasion that drove the Taliban from power. The Taliban want eight militant prisoners, including some held by the United States at its Bagram base, to be released. The hostages were Christian "volunteers" who entered Afghanistan and the ROK government did NOT stop them -- in effect, blessing their travel. The point is that the ROK government did NOTHING to stop them. When the hostage situation came to light, there were RUMORS of the ROK cancelling their flight and taking other measures to stop the group. However, the fact came out that the ROK government did NOTHING -- and allowed the group to enter Afghanistan. There have been two deaths as of 4 Aug -- as deadline after deadline have been passed. The two executed hostages were the 42-year-old leader of the group, Bae Hyung-kyu, and the interpreter, Shim Sung-min, 29. Some Korean critics called for both NGOs and the government to develop stronger rules for dispatching volunteers into conflict zones, while others criticized the ROK government for attempting to expand its global role without having adequate means of protecting its citizens abroad.

The church with which the hostages are affiliated - a large Presbyterian congregation in the Seoul suburb of Bundang - is fully aware of the dangers of kidnappings in the Taliban-dominated areas of Afghanistan. Last year, several hundred South Korean missionaries came to Afghanistan and wanted to travel by road to various parts of the country. But the Afghan National Directorate of Security (NDS) expelled all of them before they could fall into danger. This time, a relatively smaller group might have escaped the scrutiny of the NDS. From their perspective, the missionaries obviously wanted to spread the word of God, as well as aid. But they have ended up jeopardizing their lives (two already dead) and, crucially, in undermining the efforts the North Atlantic Treaty Organization coalition fighting the insurgency and reconstruction projects financed by the international community. For example, the Japanese government plans to remove all of its aid workers from Afghanistan. The Korean's actions endangered the foreign experts who work for reconstruction and development projects throughout the country -- making them potential targets for kidnapping as well. (Source: Asia Times.)

The problem is that the Afghan government will not trade prisoners for hostages. Kabul has vowed not to release Taliban prisoners in exchange for hostages after such a deal in March which was widely criticized by the US and western countries. Italian journalist Daniele Mastrogiacomo was released in exchange for five senior Taliban prisoners, reportedly after intense lobbying by Prime Minister Romano Prodi. At the time, the Afghan government stated it was a one-time measure. The trade was a mistake as one of the Taliban prisoners, commander Mansor Dadullah, quickly reestablished himself through threats and death squads to reestablish a foot-hold in an area close to the Capital. He was thought to be the one leading the kidnapping and suicide bombings in Afghanistan. It was a mistake the Afghan government does not wish to repeat. However, on a positive note it was reported that the Taliban commander Mansor Dadullah was just killed by US forces.

As for the US government, its position is that the exchange of prisoners for hostages will only encourage the terrorists world-wide to repeat the tactic. The US refuses to enter into the melee and stated that it is an Afghan matter -- and one which it has no part. The US claims that liberating the prisoners is neither something the US is capable of doing nor that the US can force the Afghanistan government to do. The US, however, is also worried about possible anti-America sentiment in the ROK due to the deterioration of the hostage situation.

The bottomline is that the ROK tried their usual methods as they have done in Iraq. They first try to embroil the US or other countries to "assist" them. Then when that fails, they try to "bribe" the captors. Then if that fails, the ROK government then tries "private" negotiations with the leadership -- in hopes that private "bribes" can be made in negotiations. The Taliban has extended several previous deadlines by hours or days. However, the militia has killed two South Korean male captives several hours after two previous deadlines. When that fails and the public opinion starts turning against them, the ROK government then tries to blame others for their lack of action in coming to their aid. The ROK sent a parliamentary delegation to the United States to seek cooperation in resolving the crisis, and relatives of the hostages pleaded for help at Washington's embassy in the South Korean capital. Those on the left blamed the U.S. "war on terror" as the cause of the incident and calling on the ROK to withdraw its troops, while those on the right expressed concern that rising anti-Americanism could harm the alliance and perhaps affect the outcome of this year's presidential election.

The NGO groups blame that "war on terrorism" for the current problem and therefore the US is to blame for the hostage situation. The People's Solidarity for Participatory Democracy stated that the ROK must clearly declare that there will be immediate withdrawal -- and also demand that the US participate in compromise. The ROK stated that the troops were coming home by the end of the year -- but not immediately.

Af first there was no reaction to the kidnappings in the US, but as soon as the anti-American reactions surfaced, the Associated Press started running stories on the ROK protests. However, soon other world or national events -- like the Minneapolis bridge collapse -- crowded the kidnapping off the US front pages.

As of 6 Aug, negotiations between the Afghan government and the Taliban have stalled, as Kabul refused to free the jailed Taliban fighters. Washington also has ruled out making a deal with the militants, who allegedly maintain links with the international terrorist group Al-Qaeda.

Rev. Han Sang-ryul at Embassy Door greeting politicians. Notice sign with "Bush Must Repent." (2 Aug 2007) (AP) (NOTE: Sign says in English: "Safe Return of Korean Hostages -- Withdraw Korean Troops Now! -- Stop Military Action -- US Must Take Responsibility -- Bush Must Repent -- Hunger Strike of Rev. -- Han Sang-Ryul Front of US Forces Korea. The other sign in Hangul states the same message.

The picture above appeared in the Tongil News on 2 Aug. The sign in English was to play to the foreign press -- as the story was picked up by the Associated Press. After a "FUCK USA" anti-American sign appeared internationally and brought such negative views from the US, the NGO groups no longer use English on signs if foreign cameramen may be in the area. One can check the early Daechuri protest signs in 2004 with the later signs in 2006 as see the absence of English -- unless there were invited foreigners in the crowd. English is used on signs only when the foreign press is expected.
This picture also appears to be part of a publicity campaign to improve the image of Rev. Han Sang-ryul. At the top are the demands of the group to Withdraw the ROK troops (from Afghanistan) immediately -- and for the US to take "responsibility" in the hostage situation. However, the US cannot reasonably accept any responsibility for actions fostered by a ROK NGO group with the acquiesence of the ROK government. This is following the time-honored formula to stir up anti-Americanism by settling on a stance that the US cannot accept and then turn on this point to play on the ROK people emotionally. The group is just waiting for the next execution -- as sick as that might be -- to foster their own agenda by saying, "Look another execution and I told you so that the Americans were at fault."

But the real meat of the press conference was to (1) Highlight Rev. Han Sang-ryul's commitment to anti-Americanism with his hunger strikes (for anything that creates popular dissent) and (2) show him as the leader of the anti-American movement/Unification movement since the Rev. Moon's anti-War NGO group has become weakened due to his failing health and the Unification NGO groups are splintered. The fact that he is being joined publicly in photo ops with other left-leaning political parties -- including the Democratic Labor Party (DLP) stained from its North Korean spying involvement and Uri party presidential hopefuls -- indicates he is trying solidify his political backing.

The left is desperate to find a cause celebre to incite the nation in anti-Americanism as it did in 2002 just prior to the Presidential elections in Dec 2007. The left is about to lose their political power base after a decade in power and the conservatives are set to move into the seats of power again. In a survey conducted by the JoongAng Ilbo among 1,000 citizens 19 years and older, 76.9 percent agreed that Washington needed to get involved in the hostage crisis. On 31 Jul about 100 people protested outside the embassy to demand U.S. action, some carrying banners reading, "Bush: Don't kill, negotiate" and "Bush, you have responsibility." Hundreds of police in riot gear surrounded the demonstrators. However, the anti-American protests seem to have failed to raise the anti-Americanism hysteria to levels it has seen before.

On 1 Aug, the group threatened a "massive" candlelight rally unless the U.S. starts negotiations with the Taliban immediately. The group wanted to turn this into an anti-American candlelight vigil but the families of the hostages refused to participate in the protests for fear that the negotiations might be hurt. Though the families have requested that the US intervene, the families believe the crisis must not turn into an anti-American movement as that could strain the talks with the Taliban and worsen the situation for the hostages. Representatives for the family groups expressed concern about the calls of some left-leaning groups to abandon the Korea-U.S. alliance and leave Afghanistan immediately. (Source: Chosun Ilbo.)

A 400-person candlelight vigil was held in Seoul on 4 Aug led by Rev Han Sang-ryul. The anti-War NGO group with banners flying joined the vigil, but notable was the absence of Fr Moon Jeong-hyun who heads the group. This leads to speculation that the Rev Han is positioning himself to take over the leadership of the anti-war group as well -- perhaps by merging his group with Fr Moon's. (NOTE: The anti-war group's position amongst NGO activist groups was severely weakened by the setback when Daechuri was turned over to the USFK -- as well as by the return of wartime control to the ROK in 2012. When the reality of the cost to Korea caused by the US leaving set in, the importance of his group -- once at the lead of all NGO Pan-Korea protest groups in 2003 -- dwindled in the eyes of the Korean populace.)

On 6 Aug President Bush met with Afghan President Karzi in Washington and both agreed that there would be no exchange of hostages with the Taliban. Stymied the ROK government wanted face-to-face negotiations with the Taliban either with the Red Crescent or UN as a mediator. The Taliban wanted the UN to mediate and guarantee the safety of Taliban negotiators in direct talks. But the world body classifies the Taliban as a terrorist group und will unlikely accept, so Seoul is mulling assistance from an NGO instead. As it stands, the ROK stands alone -- but the protestors still want the US involvement.


Unification group (6 Aug 2007) (Tongil News)


Unification group (6 Aug 2007) (Tongil News)

At the same time on 6 Aug, the protestors held another demonstration in the park to the side of the US Embassy where they had set up their tent as their base of operations. They were dressed in the standard garb for the Unification group: light blue t-shirts, red scarfs with tan vests and floppy white hats. About only 150 demonstrators appeared as it was hard to get the populace aroused over this issue. In fact, the internet proved to be a drawback as many netizens turned on the church website and started to blame the action on the group themselves. As insensitive as the remarks were the point was made that there was not going to be a massive outpouring of support against the US -- though the Korean people did feel for the hostages.

The Unification activists -- mostly college age students -- prefer to present visual images and skits to treat the protest as an artistic performance. Students dressed in white head-wraps and sporting black face masks (symbolic of death straight from the Harry Potter movies) sat before signs declaring "I don't want to die"; "We want to go home"; "US! Negotiate" and "No! Military Operation". They placed symbolic candles (for the hostages) before the paper cutout of the White House with the US flag on the ground. It should be noted that this type of skit with English signs are intended for the international press -- though they are picked up by the local media. This type of performance is standard for the more peaceful Unification factions -- as compared to the violent "storm trooper" actions of the Hanchongryeon, outlawed radical student activists, who would rather attack riot policemen than perform artistic skits. The Hanchongryeon student activists are affiliated with the anti-war faction and are best known for their attacks during the Daechuri protests in Pyeongtaek.

Eventually the hostages were released, but there was a cloud that the ROK paid a ransom for the hostages. This would threaten all Koreans abroad as they become targets for terrorists. The populace in the ROK were not sympathetic to the hostages -- and especially the Christian church "volunteers." As soon as this happened, the good Reverend dropped this protest like a hot potato. SEE South Korean Events: Afghanistan Hostages for further details of situation.

As for Rev Han Sang-ryul, he was showing up at every protest rally and left-leaning cause. The hostage situation was forgotten as the Korean people turned against the hostages for creating the mess themselves. Being a realist, he washed his hands of the cause. Instead, he showed up the humanitarian rice shipments to North Korea -- even though the North had not asked for any help at the time. He was also appearing at FTA and anti-US beef protests (though a dying cause) and many small unification rallies just for photo-ops.

In an exclusive report, the Seoul Shinmun (Korean) reported that “radical Korean Christian groups” have secretly restarted missionary work in Afghanistan. The paper, following a tip from some Christian official, talked with Afghan officials, Christian missionary groups and the Foreign Ministry. It learned that despite a travel ban put on Afghanistan in August, some missionary groups were continuing to send missionaries to the country. Korea, of course, had agreed to stop missionary activity in Afghanistan during its negotiation with the Taliban to free Korean missionaries taken hostage earlier this year.

EPILOGUE: S Korea provided US$4 mln in ransom for hostages: report (Feb 2008) South Korea paid at least US$4 million for the release of 21 South Korean Christian aid workers in Afghanistan held hostage by Taliban militia in August 2008, Newsweek magazine reported in its latest edition.

The South Korean government has denied allegations that it made any payment to the Taliban rebels to win the release of the 21 evangelical missionaries held hostage in the war-torn Central Asian state while on a humanitarian mission. Two other Korean captives were executed just days after they were captured in July. Seoul has said the captive Koreans were released on its promise to pull about 200 South Korean troops out of Afghanistan by the end of last year and ban any evangelical missions by South Korean Christians in the predominantly Islamic Central Asian state.

The weekly magazine, in its Feb. 6 edition, quoted an anonymous senior Taliban commander as saying that the South Korean government paid at least $4 million for the release of the South Koreans and that the cash was delivered to the insurgents in the Pakistani frontier city of Quetta. The magazine cited another senior Taliban leader Ustad Yasir having said in this week's edition of Afaq, a Pashtu-language magazine published in Pakistan, that "If we were going to free them without any payment, [the hostage taking] would not have been worth it. The best way to release them was with a ransom payment." Another Taliban official said that 35 percent of the ransom went to the local insurgent group in Ghazni, where the Koreans were kidnapped, and that the rest were funneled to the ruling Taliban council presided over by Taliban leader Mullah Mohammad Omar. (Source: Yonhap News.)

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Happy Birthday to ME!!! (Aug 2007) On 21 Aug 2007, I turned a super-old 62. Bah...humbug... Buffet dinner at Uri Hanshik Bupe (Korean Food Buffet) down near the Mokchon Pedestrian Underpass. Price 5000 won per head ($4.50) so inexpensive. Food not gourmet dishes, but the quantity and price outweighed the quality issues. For Americans, though the sign says Korean Food (in hangul), the food is palatable for any American. For American tastes, the fried rice, chapchae, bulgogi, and the majority of the foods were not heavily spiced with pepper. I came away full.

The restaurants on the Shinjang Mall are really not that great from quality AND quantity. You could go to Puffins and spend $20-30 per person and still be hungry. The Indian, Thai and Filipino restaurants are in my opinion just rip-offs that give a small portion at exhorbitant prices. Thus I would recommend this place for Americans downtown in the market place. I think it stays open from 10am-10pm.

But weather so hot and muggy that I didn't really want to go out. While walking home, bought a watermellon to beat the heat. Not a fancy birthday, but then I didn't want a birthday in the first place. Went home and watched the chocolate cake melt for great excitement on my birthday. Bah...humbug.


Daughter Boram and me with cake...bah!!!

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September 2007

More Bad Exchange Rate News for Retirees (Sep 2007) U.S. interest rate cut boosts Korean won The won reached its highest level in a month against the U.S. dollar yesterday as the Federal Reserve cut its benchmark interest rate by half a percentage point to ease subprime mortgage concerns. The won climbed to 926.7 won per dollar from 930.7 won the previous day. This would weaken American the greenback against other currencies, particularly Asian currencies, they said. The Korean won has strengthened almost 10 percent against the dollar since 2006.

What this means is that my fixed income in US dollars paid for less and less.

More Bad News: 900 won: $1 (Nov 2007) The Korean won briefly breached the psychologically important 900-won-to-the-dollar barrier during yesterday’s trading, hitting its highest point since August 1997. The dollar recovered slightly to finish at 900.70 won, after the central bank intervened to try and ease the rise of the Korean currency.

Given Korea’s export-reliant economy, the upward march of the won is disturbing news. The Samsung Economic Research Institute predicted the won’s value against the dollar would average 925 won next year, while LG Economic Research Institute came up with 915 won. They may have to revise their thinking. The won’s sharp rise, added to sky-high oil prices and a slowing U.S. economy, is expected to bring about a short-term correction in the fevered market for domestic equities.

The Korea International Trade Association yesterday released a statement saying its survey of 236 exporters showed 70 percent of respondents believing that a currency ceiling between 920 won and 950 won was necessary. The association urged the government “to take every possible means” to stop the won’s rally. The Ministry of Finance tried to gloss over the matter by saying it is not as bad as other world currencies rise. (Source: Joongang Ilbo.)

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Bored Stiff at Osan AB MPC waiting for daughter's ID card replacement (Sep 2007)

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October 2007

Another Setback in Life (Oct 2007) Have had another setback in the continuing downward spiral of my life. I had been suffering from shortness of breath and periodic chest pains for sometime, but thought it was simply lack of exercise. Tried to walk short distances constantly walking to the bank or other errands (about two blocks away) and then taking the long way back (about three blocks) everday.

About ten years ago, I was diagnosed as a border-line diabetic with high-blood pressure by the Kunsan USAF clinic. However, they would schedule appointments where they would take my blood pressure and then simply make me another appointment -- without giving me medications or seeing a doctor. They simply took my blood pressure and said come back next week. The doctor supposedly didn't want to start me on a medication regime because it would mean that I would be on it forever. After four months of this routine -- getting time-off from work just to get a blood pressure check I could do myself -- I simply stopped going. I started seeing Korean doctors if I had any medical problems. Thus I knew I was always at risk -- but with time, it receded in my memory banks. In recent months, I started experiencing shortness of breath during moderate exercise, i.e., climbing hills, but I passed it off as from old age setting in. I never figured on what happened this time.

Osan AB Hospital a Bust -- Turned away at the door On 4 Oct I started feeling pressure on my chest and went to the base hospital to see if I could get an appointment. To put it bluntly, I was told that there was "NO STANDBY APPOINTMENTS FOR PRIMARY CARE" by the woman on the phone with a Filipino accent. In other words, go and die somewhere else and don't bother us.

The following is from the newsletter provided by Jack Tierwell, ROK Retiree Services Coordinator, in Nov 2007. His website is RSO.:

Due to the increased number of active duty personnel and their family members using the Osan Hospital, medical care will be provided to retirees, their families and survivors using a more stringent standard. Now, a retiree seeking an appointment must call the appointment line. If an appointment cannot be provided within 48 hours, the retiree will have to repeat the process later in the day to see if a cancellation has occurred, or on a later day, and continue as long as necessary. The retiree community is, however, no longer served by just the Internal Medicine doctor. The new system means that appointments can be made with any health care provider. If an appointment cannot be obtained for care at the Osan Hospital, the alternative is to set up a referral appointment at the TRICARE desk for care at a Korean medical facility then file a claim with TRICARE for reimbursement. (SITE NOTE: The Tricare desk SSgt NEVER mentioned that he could set up a referral during my angina attack. So much for service.)

With limited access to the Osan Hospital, more retirees may find themselves using Korean hospitals for their primary care. Retirees who do not currently have SOFA status might want to consider signing up for the Korean Health Insurance. One drawback is that if you’ve been without SOFA status and living as a Resident Alien (visa category F-1, F-2, or F-3) in country for a number of years, it could be expensive to sign up. You must pay the premiums back to when you gained Resident Alien status. On the other hand, if you still have the Tourist (C-3) visa or recently converted to Resident Alien, you only pay premiums from the time you became or will become eligible for the insurance, i.e., after you became a Resident Alien. (Once you have the Korean insurance, you can return to SOFA status and keep the Korean insurance.)

For retirees with the Korean Health Insurance, I will recount my first experience at Aju University Hospital. I went to the hospital as a walk-in patient and asked for an examination for a problem I was experiencing. Only after I had been treated and went to pay the bill did I learn that the Korean insurance does not cover walk-in patients. It will only reimburse for care at a major hospital such as Aju if the patient is referred by either a U.S. military hospital or a Korean clinic or hospital, and then for all follow-up appointments. My solution was to visit the small clinic around the corner from my home and the doctor provided the referral on my wife’s request and with no exam. The Korean insurance covered 60% of most costs for the second and all subsequent visits to Aju and I filed with TRICARE to be reimbursed for 75% of the remainder of allowable costs. (SITE NOTE: I was referred to Good Morning Hospital by a clinic in Seojong-ni.)

This situation makes it even more important for retirees approaching age 65 to enroll in Medicare Part B. This is the only way you’ll be able to be reimbursed for care received at a civilian medical facility.

On the same subject and tying into the previous article, I expect to resume attendance at the Osan Hospital’s Health Care Advisory Council as the retiree representative once I’m back to volunteer status. If I can’t convince them to provide greater access to the retiree community, at least I’ll be able to give you feedback from meetings with the unvarnished word on what’s happening and what to expect.

I do qualify under Tricare Prime -- and I also continue pay for Tricare Prime coverage even though I haven't gone to the States yet. In fact, I had just received a notice in the mail from Tri-West showing that myself, my wife and daughter were enrolled and if I wanted to cancel anyone one to send the form back. If not, I didn't have to do anything. HOWEVER, the SSgt Tricare specialist at the hospital said only I am enrolled. I took the enrollment form and left the hospital. Frustrated, I left the hospital. (NOTE: Went back later and found out that in Korea, I am under Tricare Standard at no cost -- and there is NO Tricare Prime in Korea. The MSgt said they use the "Tricare Prime" as a means for showing that my family qualifies for medical care at the hospital -- which as seen by this incident is very slim. Will get them enrolled simply as extra protection.)

Thus this left me with only one choice -- going on the economy to find a doctor. I am covered under the Korean Health Insurance plan as I am on an F-2 visa with my wife as my sponsor. As a non-SOFA retiree, I have not been allowed many of the benefits given to SOFA retirees -- and have become accustomed to the cold shoulder given by the military over the years. In a nut shell, the military has treated me as a bastard step-child. As a result, I simply found health care elsewhere rather than dwelling on the negatives of the situation. According to the Stars and Stripes, "Prioritizing visits Active-duty servicemembers and others covered by Tricare Prime are given priority for hospital appointments, which must be provided under the following standards of the U.S. military's health system: Within 24 hours: For any acute but non-emergency medical needs, such as a severe cough, fever or flu. Within seven days: Any routine medical issue — for example, persistent shoulder pain, chronic cough, unexpected weight loss. Within 28 days: Special referrals, such as when a primary care physician wants a patient seen by a specialist. Also for cancer screening, medication refill and similar types of appointments. " In a nutshell, retirees had best look for healthcare elsewhere.

Retirees facing long waits for medical visits

By Franklin Fisher, Stars and Stripes
Pacific edition, Monday, December 3, 2007

— Franklin Fisher OSAN AIR BASE, South Korea — About two months into a change in the way the Osan Air Base hospital schedules appointments, some retirees say they may face much longer waits than before.

Under the change, made Oct. 1, retirees and others covered by the Tricare Standard medical plan can be given a space-available appointment only if one is open within 48 hours from the time they ask. If not, they have to keep calling until such an opening occurs. Previously, for a routine appointment, they could be given a space-available slot even if it were weeks away.

Hospital officials changed that policy in an effort to ensure that active-duty servicemembers and others covered by Tricare Prime get the appointments they need as quickly as possible, said Lt. Col. Stephen M. Mounts, commander of Osan’s 51st Medical Support Squadron. The change was part of an overall move to improve the appointment system, one that also has included hiring a second appointments clerk, Mounts said.

The new 48-hour rule at Osan is posing difficulties for some retirees, said Jack Terwiel, Army Retirement Services Officer for South Korea. “Retirees have reported to me spending days trying to get an appointment,” Terwiel said. He said about 300 military retirees live in the Osan Air Base-Camp Humphreys vicinity, which is in Pyeongtaek, about an hour’s drive south of Seoul.

The U.S. military health system is required to give priority to Tricare Prime patients under a formula that sets forth specific time periods within which those appointments must be made, Mounts said. No such requirements exist for those under Tricare Standard, said Mounts. Instead, they are given appointments on a space-available basis in U.S. military health facilities. Mounts said the appointment system functioned as “somewhat of an open door” for retirees and others in space-available status. “I think it’s what folks get used to,” said Mounts. But, he said, that practice had been maintained at the hospital’s discretion and had never been something it was required to do. (SITE NOTE: It is evident that LTC Mounts is the "new" generation -- mouthing the words that retirees never really were authorized care in the overseas hospitals in the first place. This is the attitude I have faced in Korea for the past decade.)

Although retirees may incur a longer wait to get an appointment, the hospital’s services are still available to them and other Tricare Standard beneficiaries, Mounts said. “There’s no change in benefit,” he said. “They still have access to care.” (SITE NOTE: The only trouble is that Mounts can't see that by closing the appointment system, he has closed down the care for retirees as well. One just shakes one head as these "leaders" mouthe words but have no idea what they are saying. This is the policy of the current USAF worldwide simply because they cannot handle the overload of retirees.)

Terwiel said he understands the hospital’s aim of ensuring that active-duty personnel and other Tricare Prime enrollees quickly get their appointments. But he said a policy that introduces delay and difficulty falls short of what many retirees believe the U.S. military promised them. That issue has been taken up at the Defense Department level and in the courts, Terwiel said. “A lot of retirees keep saying, ‘They promised lifetime medical care, and they’re not living up to their end of the bargain,’ ” he said. “That’s something that DOD has been dealing with for a number of years, without satisfactory resolution, at least to the retiree community.” (Source: Stars and Stripes.)

Extreme Angina: Korean Medical System On 5 Oct I suffered from chest pains and went to the hospital in Seojong-ni and they said it looked like I was having a heart attack. The chest pains weren't severe, but in a range of 1-10 they were about 2-4. The people there said they didn't have the facilities for my heart problem and called for an ambulance and sent me to Pyeongtaek to the large hospital there, Good Morning Hospital.

It was my first time in an ambulance after watching so many of them speed through red lights -- even when they are empty -- so it was a new experience. No problems along the way and didn't feel any pain or discomfort.

When I reached the hospital emergency room, I was seen by a heart-specialist doctor immediately. Next was a series of xrays of the heart and before the day was out, I was having a rotor-rooter shoved up my arteries. It wasn't a heart attack per se, but rather severe artery blockages or Angina. The problem was the heart muscle wasn't getting oxygen so it mimicked a heart attack. Dr. Park Shin-eun was my doctor and I remember asking him in the emergency room if there was going to be any surgery -- and he said "no". (Liar, liar, tail on fire...or my condition was more urgent than he thought at that time -- or maybe a rotor router using stents to open the arteries is not considered "surgery.")

Seems as though there were significant blockages and they had to unblock the arteries in three places and put in three stents to open up the arteries. Being as all the conversations were going on in Korean and they were talking to my wife, they seemed to forget to tell me until they already had the rotor-rooter up my arm. Surprise -- minor surgery on your heart. Dr. Park Shin-eun, did the process with a minimum of discomfort and I was surprised that what I was undergoing -- being major in its impact -- was done without so much fuss or effort. Using the rotating x-ray machine to view the progress, the doctor went about his business -- and in the end, he showed me the results of the saved images while on the operating table. HOWEVER, I didn't have my glasses on and could only see the blurred images. But my wife got to see them so she was impressed.

A concerned reader of my condition later wrote and stated that the "stents" are dependent upon the type, and some can cause clots and a lot of troubles -- including the risk of death. He stated, "The DES type may cause blood clotting up to a year or two later. Most Drs suggest taking Plavix and Aspirin daily after these type stents are inserted. Hopefully, you received the bare metal stents which seem to have less problems. I am also suprised that you are also on some type of blood pressure medicine or cholostrol medication. You can find addition information on stents at http//www.angioplasty.org/ or other sites on the internet." He later said, "The DES stents have a recent history of causing late stent trombosis, blood clots 6 months to a year later. These blood clots can kill you. So they put me on a daily dose of Plavix, medicine that makes the blood slippery, and a 325m aspirin." (NOTE: The risk of clots is the reason I'm on two meds as blood thinners, but as the prescription is in Korean I'm not sure of the generic name. I noticed that when taking my blood sugar levels, my blood seemed "watery." As to the type of stents, the doc simply disregarded my question when I asked him on 22 Oct. Dealing with Korean doctors is a little different. As to the meds for the "blood pressure" it is actually to reduce my heart rate which was too high. I do have high blood pressure for a diabetic, but it is the pulse rate that concerned the doctor. Normal should be about 70ppm, but mine is about 90ppm or higher.)

Next intensive care for a day and then the general ward for two days. Actually I feel great -- well, sort of considering -- and on Monday, 8 Oct, was released.


(L) Left Hand with IV -- and see the rabbit? (R) Splint to immobilize wrist (7 Oct 2007)


(L) Beautiful view from 9th Floor (R) Roommate who had stomach ulcerations and fed intravaneously. No food -- Yipes!!! (7 Oct 2007)

Good Morning Hospital is actually one of two hospitals that are co-located. Good Morning Hospital is for western medicine, while nextdoor Shin Sung Hospital is for oriental medicine. They are located side-by-side separated by a parking lot/garage. Good Morning Hospital has nine floors with the first two reserved for offices and clinics. The others are wards. On each floor, there is a small room at the end of the buildings used for getting some fresh air. In one of these rooms is a coin-operated computer. I used it once to check my email and spent the rest of the time playing go-stop from my website, but most of the times visitors steal the chair to use in the rooms -- and don't return them. My biggest problem with the meals was that I don't eat fish with bones -- and every meal contained fish as the primary protein source. Also the taste was so bland that it was totally unappetizing. As for moving around, my only problem was that when I wanted to move around, I had to unplug the metering device for the medication drip and shut off the valves on the IV. To go to the bathroom was a real pain as I had to call the nurse to get unhooked. Later I figured it out -- if I stretched the cord as long as it would go and then stretched the IV tubes carefully, I could use the bathroom without calling anyone.

Release from Hospital: 8 Oct A lot of confusion because this happened so quickly and didn't have time to tell my students. One student still thought I was in the hospital -- even after I called her. So much for my imparting understanding of English in my students. My two-day a week free English class for college students were ok because they never were aware I went into the hospital.

I went right back to teaching my classes on Monday and felt no ill-effects, except a general weakness that was to be expected. Good thing I have Korean medical insurance or I'd be busted.

The bad news of all this is that I have diabetes as well and I now will be on medications. Such is life -- all part of getting old. Went from borderline diabetic to a full-blown diabetic. You wouldn't believe how many pills I have -- 30 minutes before breakfast and 30 minutes after. Then lunch and then dinner. (I forgot to buy a pillbox at the BX when I went there and now I see why they are so essential in sorting out when to take what. I later got the pillboxes and still worry that I'll get them mixed up.)

I think they're trying to get my blood sugar under control as well as high-blood pressure. Pills are for a two week period and then I have to see the doctor again. Then I will get the real bad news.

Once again starting to read up on my illness on the internet and there is a possiblity that moderate exercise (MUCH more than I'd been doing before) might help Type 2 Diabetes. However, they stated that if one's blood sugar is above 240 not to do so. When I left the hospital, my blood sugar was in the 220-240 range. The good news (at least according to what I read) is that my favorite foods are unaffected. I love chilli -- but no more sugar for seasoning. I love stews with lots of veggies. I love all types of breads/pastries -- but now no more pastries because of the sugar. (NOTE: On my website, I have a recipe section that has been very popular with Hawaiian, Haole and Korean recipes. My lazy kanaka recipes just went out the window and I will have to modify them. Too much salt, too much sugar. Need to find out more information about low-salt shoyus and such. I love to cook but I've got to make some radical changes in seasoning.)

Blood Sugar Checks Going up and down On 10 Oct, I went to the BX and bought an Ultra 2 Blood Sugar Checker and found that my levels were now between 155-188 mg/dL in the first days of tests. Thus there doesn't seem to be any reason that I can't start a moderate exercise program. On 11 Oct my morning test was 180 mg/dL. (NOTE: Later the doctor stated to take the blood tests BEFORE eating. Found that my readings started to drop into the 120 range -- except during periods that I seem to be suffering from hypoglycemia where the readings dropped to the 60s-70s. Initially had trouble adjusting to my new diet and medications.)

The measurements have varied, but are all under 200 mg/dL which is the danger point. On 13 Oct it was 146 mg/dL after breakfast. (NOTE: Later I found out from my doctor that I should be taking readings BEFORE meals.) Now the bothersome part. Need to start a regular exercise program but still bothered by my heart feeling a strain when I engage in even mild walking. A general problem of weakness occurred as I attempted to walk moderate distances. This has confused me as I didn't have this before.

Another problem for me is that I didn't really know what I was looking at -- and didn't really have a standard to know WHEN I should be taking the blood glucose tests. BOTTOMLINE: Really didn't know what I'm measuring -- nor did I know when I should be taking the blood glucose tests. I started reading and found out that my morning tests showed that I had all the symptoms of diabetes.

Diabetes.about.com states, "Checking your blood glucose levels often through out the day will help you to figure out how to keep good control. First thing in the morning before breakfast, two hours after a meal and before bed are good times to test. Other recommended times include before, during and after an exercise session, especially if it is strenuous or if you are feeling like your blood sugar may be low or high." Following this advice, I took the blood glucose checks before a meal, after a meal, whenever I felt weak -- with the end result that my readings were bouncing all over the place. After two weeks of monitoring my blood sugar, I found that it in the mornings it was more or less normal, but by afternoon when I show signs of general weakness, my blood sugar levels are very low. Then it seemed to improve after my dinner. But in reality, these blood sugar checks were being done at random -- and actually not giving me any reliable information -- except for low blood sugar conditions.

According to MayoClinic.com, normal fasting blood sugar result is lower than 100 milligrams of glucose per deciliter of blood (mg/dL). This means that before breakfast, it should be below 100 (70–99 milligrams per deciliter). If your fasting blood sugar level is 100 mg/dL to 125 mg/dL, you have impaired fasting glucose — commonly known as prediabetes. A fasting blood sugar level of 126 mg/dL or higher is consistent with either type 1 or type 2 diabetes when accompanied by classic signs and symptoms of diabetes — increased thirst or hunger, frequent urination, weight loss or blurred vision. If your test results are 126 mg/dL or higher twice in a row after at least eight hours of fasting, you may have diabetes. If your blood sugar level is higher than 200 mg/dL and you have signs or symptoms of diabetes, you may be diagnosed with diabetes without a second test for confirmation.

Two hours after eating it should be between 70–145 mg/dL. (SITE NOTE: Diabetes.about.com stated that "the International Diabetes Federation (IDF) issued a press release on September 19th, recommending that people with diabetes take their blood sugar two hours after eating meals. This is called the "postprandial" blood glucose level. Based on studies, the IDF feels that keeping the postprandial blood glucose under 140 mg/dl (7.8 mmol/l) will help control diabetes better and reduce the risk of complications, especially cardiovascular disease.")

A random blood sugar test measures your blood sugar at any point in time, not necessarily a certain amount of time after a meal, snack or beverage. A normal random blood sugar result is lower than 100 mg/dL (70–125 mg/dL). If your random blood sugar level is higher than 100 mg/dL but lower than 199 mg/dL, you may have prediabetes. A random blood sugar level of 200 mg/dL or higher suggests either type 1 or type 2 diabetes. Remember, your blood sugar level alone isn't enough to differentiate between type 1 and type 2 diabetes. Your doctor may do other tests to determine which type of diabetes you have.

BOTTOMLINE: I have diabetes type 2 and I'm taking two medications for my diabetic condition -- plus blood thinners and medication to reduce my pulse rate. According to MayoClinic.com, "Symptoms of diabetes are present and a random blood glucose test is 200 mg/dL (11.1 mmol/L) or higher. Symptoms of diabetes include increased thirst and frequent urination (especially at night), unexplained increase in appetite, unexplained weight loss, fatigue, erection problems, blurred vision, and tingling or numbness in the hands or feet." Some of these symptoms, I had or continue to have -- ie, numbness in hands. According to Tricare Pressroom: "When symptoms are found early, you might only have to take medication to prevent the disease from getting worse. Sometimes minor lifestyle changes may be necessary, such as changing your eating habits or becoming more physically active. Just 30 minutes a day of moderate physical activity, coupled with a 5-10% reduction in body weight, helps to reduce the onset of diabetes in some people."

The doctor said I should take the blood sugar tests BEFORE eating. However, according to the LifeClinic.com, Clinical Advisory Board recommends that the best approach is to measure your own blood glucose at intervals after eating certain foods and meals to see for yourself what effect particular foods have on your own blood glucose. In other words, my doctor wants to see the effects on my blood sugar without food -- but other diabetes websites see the blood glucose check as a tool to find out what foods affect the body the most.

For now, I will monitor it BEFORE meals to see if I can establish a baseline for what is happening with my body. According to Diabetes.org, "Keeping a log of your results is vital. When you bring this record to your health care provider, you have a good picture of your body's response to your diabetes care plan. Blood glucose checks let you see what works and what doesn't. This allows you and your doctor, dietitian, or nurse educator to make needed changes." This is what my doctor wants -- and I think is the best route.

As of Dec, my blood glucose tests are averaging around 126 mg/dL. This is still in the high around and requires constant monitoring.

Excessive Thirst Gone During the summer months, I started to drink a lot of water. There is a fresh water spring right outside our apartment so we would refill the bottles and the whole top shelf of one refrigerator was only water. Then after it cooled off, I continued to have excessive thirst -- and from drinking a lot of water there was the frequent trips to the bathroom. As it turns out, my diabetic condition affects the excessive thirst. This was a tell-tale sign of my diabetes. After my release from the hospital and the medication, my thirst disappeared.

Now my problem is forcing myself to drink sufficient liquids. I noticed in the first days out of the hospital, I was drinking less than a small bottle of water a day (600ml). That is not enough. I started to force myself to consume liquids with every meal whether I felt thirsty or not.

One of the medications I'm taking, Godioban-jeong (hangul) or Hydrochlorothiazide (HCT) is a popular diuretic drug that acts by inhibiting the kidneys' ability to retain water. This reduces the volume of the blood, decreasing blood return to the heart and thus cardiac output and, by other mechanisms, is believed to lower peripheral vascular resistance. This leads to increased urinary output. HCT is often used in the treatment of hypertension.

High blood pressure with high pulse rate As I'd mentioned before, I have known for many years that my blood pressure was borderline high. On 10 Oct, I went to the BX and bought an IHD Microlife automatic blood pressure checker that retains a memory of past checks -- so I could keep a record of my blood pressure in conjunction with my blood sugar tests. It's one of those models that takes three checks and averages the readings.

On the first test, I was stunned as the blood pressure was NORMAL!!! I was very surprised. The first reading was Systolic: 120/Diastolic: 72. This was NORMAL.

However, on 12 Oct my blood pressure started to rise. After I got home from my office, I took my blood pressure again. It indicated 157/92. It was rising!!! Took my blood pressure when I awoke on 13 Oct and my readings were 170/96. IT WAS RISING!!! Retook it a few minutes later and it was 163/94 -- a slight drop but still in the high-blood pressure range. Over a period of weeks, the blood pressure readings dropped progressively until they were in the 130-140/70-90 range.

By 17 Nov, my blood pressure had stabilized in the 120-130 systolic and 70-90 diastolic range as an average. For example, my readings were 132/80 with the pulse rate at 91 in the morning of 17 Nov.

BOTTOMLINE: I have high-blood pressure!!! If you have diabetes, over 130/80 is considered high-blood pressure. (As of 15 Nov, my AVERAGE blood pressure reading was 140/90 with my pulse at 86. As of Dec, my blood pressure was averaging around 125/80 with my pulse at 78. It appeared to have been controlled by medication.)

Blood pressure is measured in millimeters of mercury (just like weather pressure systems!). The higher number indicates systolic pressure, which is the amount of force exerted on the walls of the arteries within and leading from the heart when it contracts (i.e., during systole). The lower number is the diastolic pressure, which is the force existing between contractions (i.e., during diastole). Your pulse rate tells you how many times your heart beats, or contracts, in one minute. Pulse rate indicates how hard your heart needs to work in order to meet your body's metabolic needs.

BLOOD PRESSURE (in millimeters of mercury)

Normal
• Systolic: below 130
• Diastolic: below 85
• Example: 120/84

High Normal
• Systolic: 130-139
• Diastolic: 85-89
• Example: 135/85 (NOTE: If you have diabetes, over 130/80 is considered high-blood pressure. My average reading as of Nov 2007 was 140/90.)

Mild High
• Systolic: 140-159
• Diastolic: 90-99
• Example: 145/95

Moderate High
• Systolic: 160-179
• Diastolic: 100-109
• Example: 160/105

Severe High
• Systolic: 180+
• Diastolic: 110+
• Example: 180/115

PULSE RATE (in beats per minute)

Low
• under 60 (Note: Some top class athletes will have normal pulse rates below 60)

Normal
• 60 - 80

High
• 81+ (SITE NOTE: My AVERAGE pulse rate as of Nov 2007 was 86. By Dec 2007, my average pulse rate had been reduced to about 78 by medication.) .

(Source: Go Ask Alice.)

According to the doctor on 22 Oct my problem is my pulse rate is way too high and he has me under medications to reduce the pulse rate -- in conjunction with blood thinners. My problem is that my pulse rate is staying around the mid-90s and it should be in the 70s. That's the reason for the medication. Atenolol (Tenormin) is in a group of drugs called beta-blockers. Beta-blockers affect the heart and circulation (blood flow through arteries and veins). Atenolol is used to treat angina (chest pain) and hypertension (high blood pressure). Sigmart tabs (nicorandil) is a drug used to treat angina. It is marketed as Sigmart in South Korea. Nicorandil acts by relaxing the smooth muscle of the blood vessels, especially those of the venous system.

On 22 Nov saw the doctor again and he stated that my diet appeared to be under control as the blood glucose checks and blood pressure seemed to be dropping , but the pulse rate stayed high. He increased the dosage of atenolol from 25mg to 50 mg.

Numbness in extremities Originally I had problems with numbness in my left pinkie that spread to second finger and then middle finger. After the operation, the numbness stopped spreading in my left hand and seemed to be receding, though some numbness remained. As of Dec, the numbness remains the same in the two fingers though not as pronounced as it was in Oct.

However, on 12 Oct, a couple of days after I left the hospital, my right thumb started to go numb like in the lack of circulation problems in the extremities that diabetics sometimes encounter. I wondered if I screwed up the medications because there were so many to take. This got me worried. However, later I noticed that the area that seemed to be numb led right up to the entry wound where they put the rotor-router up my arm. I wonder if I suffered nerve damage or something.

According to the doctor on 22 Oct, if there was nerve damage feeling will return. How did it happen? Don't ask the doctor who did the surgery as to what happened. But the bottomline is that there is no clot involved which was my primary worry.

As of 22 Nov, the right middle finger is normal though there is some numbness in the left ring finger and pinkie. The numbness on the right thumb remained the same.

In Dec, I noticed that there is a numbness at times around the heel of my right foot as well. At other times, it is normal. I am watching this carefully.

FOOD: Loss of Appetite after Breakfast -- Not good After release from the hospital on 10 Oct, I cooked a normal breakfast for a diabetic of two eggs with two slices of toast (no jelly) and slices of an orange -- along with a small bowl of cereal. Unlike the day before, where all the food tasted bad, this meal was ok. However, by lunch time, the lack of appetite returned. Even the thought of food made my stomach turn. Thus I skipped lunch. This was a no-no.

A website for "diabetes diet and nutrition"stated:

• Eat more starches such as bread, cereal, and starchy vegetables. Aim for six servings a day or more. For example, have cold cereal with nonfat milk or a bagel with a teaspoon of jelly for breakfast. Another starch-adding strategy is to add cooked black beans, corn or garbanzo beans to salads or casseroles.
• Eat five fruits and vegetables every day. Have a piece of fruit or two as a snack, or add vegetables to chili, stir-fried dishes or stews. You can also pack raw vegetables for lunch or snacks.
• Eat sugars and sweets in moderation. Include your favorite sweets in your diet once or twice a week at most. Split a dessert to satisfy your sweet tooth while reducing the sugar, fat and calories.

I'm taking two medications for diabetes. Metformin is an oral diabetes medicine that helps control blood sugar levels. The 'average' person with type 2 diabetes has three times the normal rate of gluconeogenesis; metformin treatment reduces this by over one third. Acarbose is an anti-diabetic drug that prevents the digestion of complex carbohydrates.

By 18 Oct, I found that I had lost my appetite even in the morning. I was having to force myself to eat. I could no longer eat a full plate -- and half of it went to Shelly, my dog. My favorite dishes were no longer appetizing -- but I was having to eat because I need the nourishment. This was not good.

Found a site with some recipes that I think I could live with -- in fact, I make many of them, but with the high salt - high fat portions. The site is LifeClinic: Cookbook. However, the recipes need to be read with an eye towards my diabetic condition as some of the ingredients need to be altered paying attention to carbohydrate intake, reduced salt and sugars.

My diet also started to get confusing. Figured out that the thing I need to find is a book for "carbohydrate counting." According to the website, "How much carbohydrate you should eat in a day depends on your body size and activity levels, and whether you want to gain, lose or maintain your weight. Carbohydrate budgets may range from 45 grams to 75 grams per meal. The Cleveland Clinic recommends that you eat the same amount of carbohydrate at each meal and not eat all of your daily carbohydrate allowance in one meal." It went on to say, "To control carbohydrates, try a technique called carbohydrate counting. Carbohydrate counting means counting the total number of grams of carbohydrate you should eat at a meal or planned snack time based on your medication and exercise habits. Then you can choose how to meet those carbohydrate needs. You'll probably use a carbohydrate counting book, which you can get at a supermarket or bookstore."

According to the articles I've read, pasta is excellent food for diabetics as a "good carbohydrate". However, the doctor on 22 Oct said that ramien is a no-no, so I asked him about the pasta and spaghetti and he said it was a no-no too. Now I'm confused.

According to the internet an analysis published in Diabetes Self-Management, a 2-ounce serving of pasta can have as few as 35g or as many as 50g for the unflavored varieties. Most have around 40g. A rough guesstimate is that spagehtti has around 40g, soba has about 37, rice noodles about 46. I use all of these in my cooking. But what about ramien? Well, I've given it up already because of the salt.

Then there's the breads -- something that I can't live without. It appears that plain bread has about 15-30g, but the sweeten versions (cinnamon swirls) can be around 60g. To me that means that I will have to lay off the sweet rolls -- and start getting used to whole wheat breads. What I will have to do is start eating whole grain foods. A study suggest that it improves insulin sensitivity, which may be the mechanism whereby whole-grain foods reduce the risk of type 2 diabetes and heart disease. Switched from white bread to whole wheat from the commissary, but the breads from the Korean stores are only white.

One of the highly recommended foods is cucumbers. Unfortunately, raw cucumbers make me burp -- they just don't set well with my stomach. This is the reason that kimpap (maki sushi or roll sushi) has to be without the sliced cucumbers that Koreans love to add. However, pickled cucumbers (ie, Japanese version or sweet pickled cucumbers) are fine.

Now I'm really wondering about the advice I get on the internet!!! Also found out that beef fat is no good for diabetics, but pork is ok. Of course, there are the recommendations for turkey, chicken and fish. Starting to get all kinds of conflicting advice on what to eat. The doctor said the main thing is to watch the caloric intake -- and eating in moderation.

Another thing I found out is that potatoes are no good -- or rather only if eaten in small amounts. None of the baked potatoes smothered in butter anymore. Also I liked to make thick sliced potatoes with sausage sometimes for breakfast. Now that's gone too. Anyway, I also found that when I had some potatoes, I seemed to develop a lot of gas -- probably as a reaction to the diabetic medication I'm taking that inhibits the digestion of starchy carbohydrates.

One thing is certain. By 22 Oct, because of my loss of appetite, I had lost 3 pounds (182 pounds) ...and I still hadn't started exercising because of this general weakness. Started walking short distances, but have found that this general weakness is very disconcerting -- feeling like you are going to trip and stumble -- even on the two block walk to the bookstore.

By 25 Oct, my weight was down to 180 -- a five-pound weight loss in two weeks -- without any significant exercise program, besides my daily attempts to walk around the block during my class break. I was really getting worried. However, it seemed to stabilize at the 180 point. However, my loss of appetite in the afternoon continued.

In Nov, my weight fluctuated up and down around 180. The loss of appetite in the afternoon was solved by having a can of soup, instead of a small lunch to prevent any general weakness attacks. Also if I feel an attack of hypoglycemia coming on, I eat a piece of candy to get through it. In effect, the loss of appetite in the afternoon persists, but eating soup is a small meal that insures that I have something in my stomach that is fast to prepare and easy to digest.

My biggest problem seems to be gastritis (gas attacks) because one of the medications, Acarbose (Glucobay), blocks the digestion of complex carbohydrates. I noticed that when I have Progresso noodle soups I get some very bad results with gas. The gas is almost non-stop when I get the attacks -- and as a teacher, this can be a very uncomfortable situation. Thus I have modified my diet to stay away from pasta even though it was recommended. The Chunky soup varieties do not cause any of the negative side effects I've had as with the Progresso noodle soups.

Metformin (Diabex) the other anti-diabetic drug I'm taking has some bad side effects for me. The most common adverse effect of metformin is gastrointestinal upset, including diarrhea, cramps, nausea and vomiting. I have experienced all these symptoms. Metformin is more commonly associated with gastrointestinal side effects than most other anti-diabetic drugs.

Feeling of General Weakness -- Hypoglycemia: Cause of worry I also noticed that there is an general feeling of weakness when I walk short distances -- almost like I didn't have sufficient blood sugar. This has only happened to me when I've over-exerted myself (ie, lugging furniture all day) and not eaten. This is strange. However, the internet says that diabetics have excessive fatigue as a symptom, but what concerns me is that I never felt it before.

According to Diabetes.ca, "What is low blood glucose? When the amount of blood glucose (sugar in your blood) has dropped below your target range it is called low blood glucose or hypoglycemia.

What are the signs of a low blood glucose level? You may feel: Shaky, light-headed Nervous, irritable Confused Hungry Your heart rate is faster Sweaty, headachy Weak A numbness or tingling in your tongue or lips

What causes a low blood glucose level (hypoglycemia)? Low blood glucose may be caused by:

• More physical activity than usual
• Not eating on time
• Eating less than you should have
• Taking too much medication
• The effects of drinking alcohol

Low blood glucose can happen quickly, so it is important to take care of it right away. If your blood glucose drops very low you may:

• Become confused and disoriented
• Lose consciousness
• Have a seizure

You will need assistance from another person. Make sure you always wear your MedicAlert® identification, and talk to your doctor or diabetes educator about prevention and emergency treatment for severe low blood glucose. How do I treat a low blood glucose? If you are experiencing the signs of a low blood glucose level, check your blood glucose immediately. If you don't have your meter with you, treat the symptoms anyway. It is better to be safe. Eat or drink a fast-acting carbohydrate (15 grams):

• 15 g of glucose in the form of glucose tablets
• 15 mL (3 teaspoons) or 3 packets of table sugar dissolved in water
• 175 mL (3/4 cup) of juice or regular soft drink
• 6 Life Savers® (1=2.5 g of carbohydrate) (SITE NOTE: I keep candy at my office for this problem as I suffer weakness bouts during the afternoons while away from home.)
• 15 mL (1 tablespoon) of honey

Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then check your blood glucose again. If it is still low:

• Treat again
• If your next meal is more than one hour away, or you are going to be active, eat a snack, such as a half-sandwich or cheese and crackers (something with 15 grams of carbohydrate and a protein source.)

Another good source for Hypoglycemia Causes is at EMedicientHealth.com. It stated that common causes of low blood sugar included: (1) Overmedication with insulin or antidiabetic or (2) Missed meals. There are also possibilities of other complications and diseases of the kidney and liver.

On 10 Oct, I tried to walk to market place and noticed that unlike in the past (when I didn't feel any pressure from the short walk), I was feeling my heart rate speed up very fast after a short distance and a shortness of breath. This had never happened before and I wondered if now with my UNBLOCKED arteries, my body was trying to get used to the increased blood flow. This was accompanied by a general feeling of weakness.

On 11 Oct, I forced myself to eat a small meal for lunch -- much smaller than I am used to as I just didn't feel hungry -- just to get something in my stomach for lunch. I noticed that I didn't have any of the general feeling of weakness as I had the day before. Thus I figured that I would have to follow this routine as my norm.

On 12 Oct, I felt less of the weakness. Believed it was due to my reduced intake of food due to my body changes. I thought that when my body stabilized, I would start walking.

On the 13th went down to the Shinjang Mall for the Friendship festival to see what was going on. It was the same as last year with a lot of food booths that I couldn't touch because of my diabetes. Settled for one boiled ear of corn ... but walked up and down until I felt my legs getting tired and then came home. I didn't feel the general sense of weakness that day.

On 15 Oct, I was out and about when an attack of general weakness hit me. Drove home and took my blood sugar levels. It was 63 -- instead of the normal levels of in the 140s. Immediately, I ate a bowl of cereal and 1 tablespoon of sugar. Then I took my blood sugar again and it was 83. I continued to feel this general weakness through the classes that night and took my blood sugar level when I got home. It was 123. I really needed to get my diet under control.

I thought the problem seemed to be tied to my loss of appetite as well. I no longer felt hungry in the afternoon. I tried eating a small portion for lunch, but even then I felt somewhat nauseous after eating a few bites. I also noticed that this general sense of weakness was only in the late afternoons.

On 19 Oct, I was in my office in the afternoon about 1600 when suddenly I experienced severe dizziness -- feeling almost like I was going to faint. I quickly grabbed two pieces of candy and popped them into my mouth. The feeling of dizziness passed, but this started getting me very worried.

On 20 Oct, I found that two sandwiches (ie, toast with tuna salad) seemed to go down all right without any of the problems mentioned before about having to force the meal down. Figured I would continue this routine to see if this eliminated these bouts of general weakness -- which I knew were from a low blood sugar condition.

However, on 24 Oct, I had two tuna salad sandwiches at 1400, but at 1600 I experienced the same feelings of general weakness again. Ate two pieces of candy to try to relieve the symptoms. On 25 Oct, I could only handle one tuna fish sandwich, but I didn't develop any general weakness symptoms like the previous day -- only a short period where I felt a little weak. Later it went away. Perhaps the condition has less to do with food than the medications.

By 31 Oct, I noticed that there was a pattern emerging that I simply did not want to eat lunch. I just wasn't hungry and had no appetite for anything. Have been forcing myself to eat something -- anything -- simply to have something in my stomach. Even a small portion of food makes me feel nauseous. Only apple slices seem to go down well. Will start of soups to see how that works.

Also on my little attempts to force myself to walk in the afternoons, I noticed that everyone seems to pass me as I'm walking so slow. Still feel a little weakness when walking.

In Nov, I started eating canned soup for lunch to get some kind of nourishment despite the lack of appetite. I also started to add a little cooked brown rice to the soups to give it a little "texture" and make it more palatable. I noticed from the labels on the cans that the carbohydrates are in the 14-20g range, but the soups sodium contents can be in the 800-900mg range. I have been choosing soups with the lower sodium contents. The attacks of hypoglycemia and the feelings of general weakness have just about disappeared. However, I am pretty quick to eat some candy or high sugar source at the slight inkling of weakness.

Have started to identify that certain foods have caused spikes in my blood glucoses tests. The worst spike was caused when I made my homemade pumpkin pie -- and made the mistake of eating two pieces with whipped cream. BAM...the readings jumped from 120 range to 160. No more pumpkin pie -- or at least I'll buy it only by the slice from now on. Another addiction of mine -- shortbread cookies -- has also bitten the dust. Also all my sweet chili sauce for oriental cooking also went in the trash. All of these culprits are packed with sugar. Surprisingly, another culprit was the garlic bread toast from the bakery. I assume they use a lot of sugar in the dough or garlic spread. This surprised me. From now on, I'll make my garlic bread at home.

MEDICATIONS: A lot of pills There are a lot of pills that I have to take. Two before breakfast and eight after breakfast. Two before lunch. Two before dinner and two after. The pills were prescribed by the doctor were supposed to contain two medications to thin the blood and two for diabetes and two for reducing the pulse rate. However, as they were written in Korean, I didn't know what they were. Finally, had the daughter translate them using the Internet.

• (1) Asutuliku-kapsail (hangul)
  Aspirin enteric coated -- Blood thinner
  (same as aspirin - blood thinner. Aspirin is sometimes used to treat or prevent heart attacks, strokes, and chest pain (angina). Aspirin should be used for cardiovascular conditions only under the supervision of a doctor.)
  
  
• (2) Pullapiksujeong (hangul) 75mg
  Plavix -- Anti-clotting
  (Generic Name: clopidogrel (kloh PID oh grel). Brand Names: Plavix. PLAVIX, taken with aspirin and your other heart medicines, can add protection if you’ve been hospitalized with heart-related chest pain or had a certain type of heart attack, conditions your doctor may call Acute Coronary Syndrome (ACS). Plavix keeps the platelets in your blood from coagulating (clotting) to prevent unwanted blood clots that can occur with certain heart or blood vessel conditions. Plavix is used to prevent blood clots after a recent heart attack or stroke, and in people with certain disorders of the heart or blood vessels. (Source: Plavix.))
  
  
• (3) Pulaetal-jeong (hangul) 100mg
  Pletaal -- Anti-clotting
  (Pletaal (Cilostazol) is an antiplatelet agent with a platelet aggregation inhibitory action and a vasodilating action developed by Otsuka Pharmaceutical. Arteriosclerotic diseases such as ischemic heart disease (e.g. angina, myocardial infarction), cerebrovascular disorders, and chronic arterial obstruction have been increasing recently due to the aging of the population, stress in daily life, and the increased prevalence of metabolic syndrome. Many hemodialysis patients with concomitant diabetes are known to develop arteriosclerotic diseases early, which will eventually progress to an advanced stage. (Source: Pletaal.) Cilostazol is 6- [4- (l-cyclohexyl-lH-tetrazol-5-yl) - butoxy] -3, 4-dihydrocarbostyril as shown in the following formula (I)/ which exhibits high inhibitory action for platelet aggregation as well as inhibitory action for phosphodiesterase, antitumor activity, hypotensive action, antiphlogistic action, etc. and thereby is widely used as an antithrombotic agent, a drug improving cerebral circulation, an antiphlogistics, an antitumor drug, an antihypertensive agent, an antiasthmatic agent, as well as a phosphodiesterase inhibitor. The cilostazol tablets which are called Pletaal tablet 50® and Pletaal tablet 100® (Source: Cilostazol.) (NOTE: Cilostazol prescribed for pain while walking due to reduced blood flow to legs.))
  
  
• (4) Sikumadu-jeong (hangul) 5 mg
  Sigmart tabs (nicorandil) -- Dilate blood vessels
  (Nicorandil is a drug used to treat angina. It is marketed under the trade names Ikorel (in the United Kingdom, Australia and most of Europe), Zynicor (in India) and Sigmart (in Japan, South Korea and Taiwan). Nicorandil is not available in the United States. Nicorandil acts by relaxing the smooth muscle of the blood vessels, especially those of the venous system. It does this through two methods. Firstly, by activating potassium channels, and secondly by donating nitric oxide to activate the enzyme guanylate cyclase. Guanylate cyclase causes activation of GMP leading to both arterial and venous vasodilatation. As it is selective for vascular potassium channels, it has no significant action on cardiac contractility and conduction. Although it can dilate the coronary vessels of a healthy individual, its effects on the coronary vessels of someone with ischaemic heart disease will be little as they will already be completely dilated. Instead, it dilates the venous system, reducing preload and the work of the heart. Common side effects include flushing, palpitation, weakness, headache, mouth ulcers, nausea and vomiting. More recently peri-anal, ileal and peri-stomal ulceration has been reported as a side effect. Anal ulceration is now recognised by the British National Formularly as a recognised side effect. (Source: Wikipedia.)
  
  
• (5) Daenolmin-jeong (hangul) 25mg (Increased to 50mg on 22 Nov to control pulse rate)
  Atenolol (Tenormin) -- High-blood pressure
  (Generic Name: atenolol (ah TEN oh lol) Brand Names: Tenormin Atenolol is in a group of drugs called beta-blockers. Beta-blockers affect the heart and circulation (blood flow through arteries and veins). Atenolol is used to treat angina (chest pain) and hypertension (high blood pressure). It is also used to treat or prevent heart attack. Do not stop taking atenolol without first talking to your doctor. Stopping suddenly may make your condition worse. Atenolol can cause side effects that may impair your thinking or reactions. Be careful if you drive or do anything that requires you to be awake and alert. Avoid drinking alcohol, which could increase drowsiness and dizziness while you are taking atenolol. Atenolol is only part of a complete program of treatment for hypertension that may also include diet, exercise, and weight control. Follow your diet, medication, and exercise routines very closely if you are being treated for hypertension. (Source: Drugs.com.) Atenolol is a ß1 specific antagonist, a drug belonging to the group of ß-blockers, a class of drugs used primarily in cardiovascular diseases. Introduced in 1976, atenolol was developed as a replacement for propranolol in the treatment of hypertension. Unlike Propranolol, atenolol does not pass through the blood-brain barrier thus avoiding various CNS side effects. Whilst atenolol, the most widely used ß-blocker in the United Kingdom, was once first-line treatment for hypertension, the role for ß-blockers in hypertension was downgraded in June 2006 in the United Kingdom to fourth-line as they perform less well than other drugs, particularly in the elderly, and there is increasing evidence that the most frequently used ß-blockers at usual doses carry an unacceptable risk of provoking type 2 diabetes.Atenolol (trade name Tenormin) can be used to treat cardiovascular diseases such as hypertension, coronary heart disease, arrhythmias, and treatment of myocardial infarction after the acute event. Patients with compensated congestive heart failure may be treated with atenolol as a comedication (usually together with an ACE inhibitor, a diuretic and a digitalis-glycoside, if indicated). In patients with congestive heart failure, it reduces the need for and the consumption of oxygen of the heart muscle. It is very important to start with low doses, as atenolol reduces also the muscular power of the heart, which is an undesired effect in congestive heart failure. (Source: Wikipedia.)
  
  
• (6) Godioban-jeong (hangul) 80/125mg
  Hydrochlorothiazide (Walsartan) -- Diuretic
  (Hydrochlorothiazide, sometimes abbreviated HCT, HCTZ, or HZT is a popular diuretic drug that acts by inhibiting the kidneys' ability to retain water. This reduces the volume of the blood, decreasing blood return to the heart and thus cardiac output and, by other mechanisms, is believed to lower peripheral vascular resistance. Hydrochlorothiazide is sold both as a generic drug and under a large number of brand names, including: Apo-Hydro, Aquazide H, Dichlotride, Hydrodiuril, HydroSaluric, Microzide, Oretic. Hydrochlorothiazide belongs to the thiazide class of diuretics, acting on the kidneys to reduce sodium (Na) reabsorption in the distal convoluted tubule. This reduces the osmotic pressure in the kidneys, causing less water to be reabsorbed by the collecting ducts. This leads to increased urinary output. HCT is often used in the treatment of hypertension, congestive heart failure, symptomatic edema and the prevention of kidney stones. It is effective for nephrogenic diabetes insipidus (paradoxical effect, which decreases urine formation) and is also sometimes used for hypercalciuria and Dent's Disease. Hypokalemia, an occasional side-effect, can be usually prevented by potassium supplements or combining hydrochlorothiazide with a potassium-sparing diuretic. (Source: Wikipedia.)
  
  
• (7) Daiaban-jeong (hangul) 500mg
  Metformin (Diabex) -- Diabetes Type 2 (Control blood sugar)
  (Generic Name: metformin (met FOR min) Brand Names: Fortamet, Glucophage, Glucophage XR, Glumetza, Riomet Metformin is an oral diabetes medicine that helps control blood sugar levels. Metformin is for people with type 2 (non-insulin-dependent) diabetes. Metformin is sometimes used in combination with insulin or other medications, but it is not for treating type 1 diabetes. Metformin may also be used for purposes other than those listed in this medication guide. Take metformin with a meal, unless your doctor tells you otherwise. Some forms of metformin are taken only once daily with the evening meal. Take care not to let your blood sugar get too low, causing hypoglycemia. (Source: Drugs.com.) Metformin (INN; trade names Glucophage, Riomet, Fortamet, Glumetza, Diabex, Diaformin, and others) (IPA: /m?t'f?rm?n/) is an oral anti-diabetic drug from the biguanide class. It is the first-line drug of choice for the treatment of type II diabetes, particularly in overweight and obese people and those with normal kidney function.Metformin is the most popular anti-diabetic drug in the United States and one of the most prescribed drugs in the country overall, with nearly 35 million prescriptions filled in 2006 for generic metformin alone. The main use for metformin is in the treatment of diabetes mellitus type 2, especially when this accompanies obesity and insulin resistance. Metformin is the only anti-diabetic drug that has been proven to reduce the cardiovascular complications of diabetes, as shown in a large study of overweight patients with diabetes. Unlike the other most-commonly prescribed oral diabetes drugs, the sulfonylureas, metformin monotherapy will generally not induce hypoglycemia. Hypoglycemia during intense exercise has been documented, but is extremely rare. The exact mechanism of action of metformin is uncertain despite its known therapeutic benefits. Its mode of action appears to be mainly by reduction of hepatic gluconeogenesis, but also decreased absorption of glucose from the gastrointestinal tract and increased insulin sensitivity by increasing peripheral utilization of glucose The 'average' person with type 2 diabetes has three times the normal rate of gluconeogenesis; metformin treatment reduces this by over one third. A 2001 study showed that metformin stimulates the hepatic enzyme AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK), which plays an important role in the metabolism of fats and glucose. The molecular target which metformin directly interacts with remains elusive. The most common adverse effect of metformin is gastrointestinal upset, including diarrhea, cramps, nausea and vomiting; metformin is more commonly associated with gastrointestinal side effects than most other anti-diabetic drugs. In a clinical trial of 286 subjects, 53.2% of the 141 who were given immediate-release metformin (as opposed to placebo) reported diarrhea, versus 11.7% for placebo, and 25.5% reported nausea/vomiting, versus 8.3% for those on placebo. Gastrointestinal upset can cause severe discomfort for patients; it is most common when metformin is first administered, or when the dose is increased. The discomfort can often be avoided by beginning at a low dose (1 to 1.7 grams per day) and increasing the dose gradually. Gastrointestinal upset after prolonged, steady use is less common. Long-term use of metformin has been associated with increased homocysteine levels and malabsorption of vitamin B12. Higher doses and prolonged use are associated with increased incidence of B12 deficiency, and some researchers recommend screening or prevention strategies. (Source: Wikipedia.) )
  
  
• (8) Kallugobai-jeong (hangul) 100mg
  Acarbose (Glucobay) -- Diabetes Type 2 (Carbohydrate digestion inhibitor)
  (Acarbose is an anti-diabetic drug used to treat type 2 diabetes mellitus and, in some countries, prediabetes. It is sold in Europe under the brand name Glucobay® (Bayer AG), in North America as Precose® (Bayer AG), and in Canada as Prandase® (Bayer AG). It is an inhibitor of alpha glucosidase, an enteric enzyme that releases glucose from larger carbohydrates. Acarbose inhibits enzymes (glycoside hydrolases) needed to digest carbohydrates: specifically alpha-glucosidase enzymes in the brush border of the small intestines and pancreatic alpha-amylase. Pancreatic alpha-amylase hydrolyzes complex starches to oligosaccharides in the lumen of the small intestine, whereas the membrane-bound intestinal alpha-glucosidases hydrolyze oligosaccharides, trisaccharides, and disaccharides to glucose and other monosaccharides in the small intestine. Inhibition of these enzyme systems reduces the rate of digestion of complex carbohydrates. Less glucose is absorbed because the carbohydrates are not broken down into glucose molecules. In diabetic patients, the short-term effect of these drugs therapies is to decrease current blood glucose levels: the long term effect is a small reduction in HbA1c level. Since acarbose prevents the digestion of complex carbohydrates, the drug should be taken at the start of main meals. (Taken with first bite of meal.) Moreover, the amount of complex carbohydrates in the meal will determine the effectiveness of acarbose in decreasing postprandial hyperglycemia. Adults are to take doses of 25mg 3 times daily. Since acarbose prevents the degradation of complex carbohydrates into glucose, the carbohydrates will remain in the intestine. In the colon, bacteria will digest the complex carbohydrates, thereby causing gastrointestinal side effects such as flatulence and diarrhea. Since these effects are dose-related, it is generally advised to start with a low dose and gradually increase the dose to the desired amount. If a patient using acarbose suffers from a bout of hypoglycemia, the patient should eat something containing monosaccharides, such as glucose tablets. Since acarbose will prevent the digestion of complex carbohydrates, starchy foods will not effectively reverse a hypoglycemic episode in a patient taking acarbose. (Source: Wikipedia.)
  
  

Beware of Ginseng Also dangerous is my wife. She bought these "elixirs" from the drug shop to help one's health. The trouble is ginseng (insam) which is in about every form of health tonic. She keeps saying, "A little won't hurt you..."

However, on the website it said, "People with diabetes who are being treated with either insulin or oral hypoglycemic drugs could experience a hypoglycemic reaction from American ginseng tea. That warning was conveyed in an article and a letter in the Nov. 27, 2000 issue of the Archives of Internal Medicine. Ginseng is an extremely popular herbal medicine, and it may be used alone, as tea, or in combination with other herbal medicines in a compound formula. On its own, ginseng tends to reduce glucose levels in people with or without diabetes. But when taken by people on medication to control their diabetes, an interaction may occur, resulting in hypoglycemia."

But I remember someone telling me long ago that ginseng -- even ginseng candy -- is not good for anyone with a heart condition. Had something to do with ginseng being a "heat" food and the heart was sensitive to "heat" -- or something like that. The problem was that my brother-in-law sent some Korean medicine (a dark fluid sealed in plastic bags) for my heart condition. On the package there is a deer and ginseng printed. Though my wife said there was no ginseng it, I was not about to take any chances because truthfully there is no knowing what is in the mixture -- deer antler, ginseng or other stuff. These may interact with my medication in an adverse way. These packets are brewed through a pressure-cooker process in small shops that are found in many small neighborhoods.

Reflux -- A bothersome side effect Many years ago, I had a reflux problem when I was very over-weight. I lost a lot of weight and the reflux problem disappeared. Now its back. Reflux is when the gastric acids from the stomach back up into the throat and leaves a burning sensation. I noticed that after I lay down in a reclining position, I start to get a feeling that the gastric juices are backing up. It is a very uncomfortable feeling when I lay down to sleep. I've tried chewing two TUMS tablets, but I'm wondering what this might be doing to my medications combinations. This might be from my messing with my diet to get rid of the sugar and reducing the salts. I read about reflux's association with diabetic conditions, but I'm not sure of its impact to my specific condition.

Also noticed that I am having more and more "acid stomach" incidents -- burping all the time -- when I get these general weakness bouts. Also equally bad is that the "acid attacks" are ultimately accompanied by the soft stools with a lot of gas. Have tried eating bread slices when I get these attacks -- for fear that too many TUMS may create other problems. However, this proved ineffective. Alka Seltzer is out because it can't be taken with the blood thinning medications I'm on. Thus TUMS seems to be the only alternative -- though it does contain sugars.

I have learned that one no-no is drinking orange juice at night. I get some severe cases of reflux after doing this. Orange juice is only for the mornings!!! A long-time ago I also learned that I can't handle cereal with milk at night because of the reflux problems.

EXERCISE: Slow start Starting exercising has been off to a slow start. First, right after release from the hospital, there was the unusual weakness trying even short walks -- and my heart racing. This was something that never happened before -- and I thought it was my body getting used to the new medications. In addition, my blood sugar checks were at first rather high in the 150 mg/dL range -- sometimes in the 200 mg/dL. Exercising with a blood sugar reading above 200 mg/dL is dangerous. Then there was the initial weakness in the afternoons that I felt when I first came home from the hospital. It has now disappeared -- except for the afternoon general weakness that I brought under control by having soup to overcome the loss of appetite.

As of Nov I am still NOT up to any prolonged exercise -- which will be walking -- for long periods. I started to walk short distances each day. On weekdays, I try to walk the long way home from work at night going around the apartment to the far side. On the weekends, I try to go to Shinjang Mall or the base to walk around shopping -- though not buying anything -- to stay on my legs until they start to feel tired. When I say "start to feel tired" I mean that my feet seem to feel wobbly -- a sign that I running low on sugar and need to go home for a snack.

I need to get the bike out and start to use it -- even though the weather is starting to get chilly. I have a basket in the front where Shelly used to sit in after she got tired from running on a leash around the apartment complex (while I rode the bike) -- before the apartment started their anti-pet policies.

Walked up around the last apartments and back and the route took 20 minutes -- which is the minimum. My neighbor walks an hour -- five times around the apartment complex -- every morning. Still not up to that speed as my legs feel "wobbly" after the 20 minute jaunt -- but then I'm pressing myself to walk at a brisk pace. I have been repeating this process into Dec and there are times that I do feel a little wobbly. My biggest problem now that winter is here is that my legs start cramping after brisk walking.

EPILOGUE: (Dec 2007) The end of the story is that I will be on meds for the rest of my life. However, visited the doctor on 21 Dec and his prognosis is that I "doing good." The bottomline is that my blood glucose readings show that my diabetes appears to be under control. My blood pressure is reduced to "normal" levels -- though still borderline for a diabetic. The important thing is that my pulse is now in the 70s on an average instead in the 90s-100s like before. The meds seem to have brought it down.

As it sits in Dec 2007, the doctor gave me a prescription for two months of meds and said that I now only need to check my blood glucose twice a week -- once in the morning before breakfast and two hours after my evening meal. Things seem to have stabilized with my system -- though I still have bouts of general weakness in the afternoon periodically. Now that winter is here, I have started to have cramps in my legs and back when I take some longer walks which I wonder has anything to do with circulation. In all, I'm just like any other old foggie suffering from diabetes type 1 -- just have to eat small meals and snack on fruits...and take the meds.

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Nephew Gets Out of ROK Army (Nov 2007) My nephew Suwon got out of the ROK Army. He had an unfortunate entry experience where he was severely beaten by "seniors" as the standard discipline routine. He was assigned to a Security Police unit and their routine for discipline included this type of "hazing." This was supposedly curbed years ago after many soldiers were injured as a result of this practice, but this prohibition appeared to not have been enforced at his camp. The beating was so severe, it required his hospitalization for two months -- and even now he still requires hospital care. After the beating, he was transferred to another camp because of the potential for harassment because of the formal complaints his parents lodged against the ROK Army. Anyway, the nightmare experience is now over for Suwon. He is now headed back to finish his college. Went up to Inchon to have a duck dinner with his parents to celebrate his release.


Inchon Dinner for Nephew release from Army: (L) Nephew Sujin -- Ex-Marine; now employed by his Dad (R) Nephew Suwon -- Just out of ROK Army back to college (10 Nov 2007)

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New Year's a Complete Bust (Dec 2007) On 28-29 Dec Jean Kim -- one of my daughter's oldest friends from Kunsan -- came to visit us. She also was one of my first students when I started to teach English to my daughter -- and we've been friends with her family for over ten years. Unfortunately, Jean's visit was a complete bust. It was a rather dull time as there isn't much going on during the holidays. My daughter and Jean spent a day wandering at Shinjang Mall and the local area and then I showed her some of the local sights. It was a very boring tour as things are all shuttered up for the winter. For example, took her out to the temple in Jinwi, but all the outdoor statues were covered and the temple itself had all the doors locked. However, it was kind of neat when it started to snow when we got there and it was just so peaceful and tranquil in that setting.


Jean (29 Dec 2007) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Boram accompanied Jean back to Kunsan on 29 Dec by train to spend the night there and meet her old friends. Unfortunately, the cold snap hit and transportation was a nightmare down there. It had about two feet of snow on the ground and in Kunsan, this means that people don't move outside of their houses. With the wind, the chill factor gets below zero in a hurry.

On 31 Dec, Boram returned to Songtan and had an interesting experience along the way. She caught the taxi from Iksan (Jean's home) to the new Kunsan train station in Changhang. When she got there, there was a KBS television crew waiting to interview her. It seems that she was the first passenger to catch the train from the new station. She was presented with a clip-on calendar/clock/photo holder as a memento. The interview may have been just local broadcast on KBS. According to Boram, the new station is like the station at Songtan and looks very modern. Geez, I still remember that old station from years ago -- and I have to agree that it's about time that it was upgraded.

So much for a boring New Years. Besides dinner with my brother-in-law at the Oriental House on base, we went nowhere. It had been a while since I ate there and learned that their bibimpap was terrible. The ox-tail soup seemed passable, but if I had to recommend it I certainly wouldn't. If you want to eat Korean, go downtown!!!

New Years was a complete bore!

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MAPS

Map of North and South Korea


Map of Korea (Expressways)


Pyeongtaek-Songtan-Anjung


Songtan Greater Area


Songtan Road Map


Road Map of Songtan area


Map of Osan AB <